ghana

Ghana

Friday 21st December 2007:

The first thing we noticed was that all the signs were in English. We drove over to where the big "Welcome to Ghana" arch blocks the road and found the Immigration office on the right. We made our way past all the immigration officials watching the afternoon English soap on tv, to a room where a very young looking official was dealing with two other locals. Eventually it was our turn and we filled out our immigration cards just in time as a whole bus load of people then walked in. This included a bunch of American tourists. The boom was lifted for us and we drove through, to be met by even more money changers while being directed to the Ghana Customs office. Getting the carnet stamped was simple enough and we both chuckled at the notice stuck on the counter windows, "Only monkey's sit on tables", which was quite funny as there were more tables than chairs in the room.

The hunt was now on to change money in a reputable place as we didn't have a clue what a good exchange rate to change Euros to Cedi's was.

We tried at the Ghanaian border, but they told us to try banks in Navrongo. We tried two there who both told us to go to what sounded like 'My wheel' or 'My wall', in Bolgatanga. We drove on to Bolga and asked at another 2 banks until eventually Ross went on foot and found 'My Will', a shop that sells cigarettes and changes money. We changed at a rate of 1€ to C13 500, which is good according to a petrol station attendant. We got a whole wod of new money, because the old money becomes non-existant from the 31st December. One thing we noticed was that all the shops are proper brick structures and all have religious names, 'King Jesus Chemicals'; 'The Lord will provide for my needs boutique'; 'Moto services - with honesty' and 'Doctor Jesus Dentists'. Bolga also had statues of various biblical figures dotted around its streets. Most homes are also built of brick, rather than the mud rondavels we've seen up till now.

We set off on our way to Mole, paying our two tolls of C800 each. The money is very confusing as its value is not what is written on it and the small silver coins seem to be very valuable. At our first toll we went back to question our change as we didn't understand it. While Ross was querying, Heidz had an interesting and fun-filled conversation with some local children who initially came over to sell watermelons and then other small yellow melons. It was so sweet being able to find out about their lives, schooling and Christmas traditions. They told Heidz they had decorated Christmas trees up in their homes and that their special Christmas meal is 'rice with a special stew that has meat in it'. The boys told her they are on Christmas holidays for 25 days. Ghana, being English, makes it possible to understand them. One of the little boys was very good at football and we wished we'd had our balls more easily accessible to be able to have given him one. When we left, he gave us a yellow melon as a gift with a lovely white smile and a big wave.

With daylight fading and us not being anywhere near Mole we pulled off to bush camp just before the village of Pigu. It was very difficult to find a place to bush camp as all of northern Ghana seems to either be burnt, smouldering or burning, so bush camping has some very real fire hazards. We drove quite far off the road behind some bushes and both felt completely sapped of energy due to the constant heat. A big herd of about 50 cattle were herded fairly close passed us, but due to the dust they kicked up, we were totally hidden from sight. We had a cool, delicious tuna salad for dinner using totally African ingredients! Off to bed early so we can get up early to reach Mole. The temperature was still high and the visibility was very poor so we didn't see the sun set, moon rise or the stars above us due to all the fires.

Saturday 22nd December 2007: Bush Camp near Pigu, Ghana

GPS Info: N10° 03' 30.7" W00° 49' 09.7"

Miles Today: 141 Total Miles: 8808

We woke up to heat and the sound of goats all around us, but no herdsmen to be seen. Off on our way to Mole National Park, the largest game reserve in Ghana famous for its elephants. We drove through Tamale and turned onto the dirt road to Larabanga and Mole. We were driving with our lights on the whole way as the visibility was so bad due to all the smoke and soot from the fires. We passed mostly black, burnt ground and many fires burning. We saw many opportunist kites flying above and waiting on the road to feast on any creatures trying to escape the flames. It's such a shame to have all of the Ghana we've seen so far being completely burnt. This also adds to the already high temperatures.

Mole is well sign posted and has it's long list of rules written up on boards well before you enter the park. The dirt road was very badly rutted and the rattling noise coming from the rear right of Duzi2, which started in the Dogon Country, was made even worse.

We arrived at Mole both very relieved to not have to sit and drive in the heat any more, but were both very disappointed with the lack of visibility and the limitations of the park. You can only stay in the motel part of the park, which is only the first 2sq km out of the total 4660sq km. You are not allowed to drive on the roads in the park without an armed ranger and these you can only hire for a maximum of 2 hrs and this seemed a bit too much effort for the reception staff to get information on, or to arrange. We paid C4.00 each for park entry, 40pesewas(p) for the car and 20p per camera and then C3.50 per person to camp. We asked Daniel at the gate about the water situation and he reasured us there was plenty of water. Mole seems to have a reputation about their lack of water...

It was boiling and thank goodness for the pool, because there was no water! We were told we could shower and use the loos in the dorm rooms, but they forgot to mention there was no water so actually you couldn't use these at all. Well we're definitely not hanging around here for Christmas. You can go on guided walks for about 2 hrs in the morning (6.30am) and mid afternoon(3.30pm), but the area you cover on your walk is totally visible from the motel camp.

The pool was heaving with tourists and also had so many rules...you have to inform reception before you swim, can only swim in certain areas and at certain times with no splashing or diving, only in certain swimming attire, not after meals, etc. They did have a fake Christmas tree up in the restaurant, but the restaurant was very pricey for a very simple menu. After chasing the baboons away and warding off the warthogs from the 'grassy' camping area, we opened up the tent and hoped that we'd get some shade to cool off in. The baboons are a real pest and don't seem phased by people at all - running off with clothes and food, etc. The big male baboon didn't worry about Heidi trying to shoo it, but did scamper off when Ross approached it. They obviously can tell the difference between males and females, something we've read about before.

We were approached by many 'friendly' people at the car, who after a short chat each ended up asking us for one thing or another. We had asked at reception about whether there was a shop nearby for basic things like bread and were told about the local community shop a few hundred metres down the road. We walked to the shop in the staff village nearby and were accompanied by a swarm of kids asking us to buy them a football. Eventually we ended up at the shop that sold bread, but the bread truck hadn't arrived yet. We started chatting to Yusuf Ibrihim, a very enthusiastic senior ranger who had been trained at Letaba Camp in Kruger Park (South Africa) for a month two years ago. He was raving about how amazing Kruger was and said Letaba was his favourite camp. He has worked in all the game reserves in Ghana and was able to tell us bits about each of them. He had also opened the canopy walk in Kakum NP in 1989, somewhere we're hoping to go to on our way to Accra.

We left breadless, but felt good that at least this senior ranger seemed enthusiaistic about conservation and his expectations for the future of Mole.

We made a very quick dinner fearing we may be worried by the baboons, but they must have all settled around the community village together with all the warthogs. We ended up sneaking into the pool to 'bath' and cool off, even though the pool was closed to swimming after 7:00pm. It was SO hot.

Sunday 23rd December 2007: Mole National Park, Ghana

GPS Info: N09° 15' 34.5" W01° 51' 20.6"

Miles Today: 111 Total Miles: 8919

We were woken up to the wonderful sound of a man's blaring car radio as he washed his car at 5.30am! We knew we weren't going to stay another night in waterless Mole, so we packed up the tent and searched with bonoculars for the few animals. Spotted a buck that looks like a cross between an impala and a puku.

Whilst having our breakfast we caught a glimpse of an elephant bull ambling very slowly in the direction of the waterhole for his morning drink.

We waited for ages for him to emerge from the scrub to enjoy his drink and noticed how big the crocs were, swimming in the water and basking on the banks of the man-made waterhole. Eventually after his drink our ellie moved off and another bull approached who went straight into the water to enjoy his drink. He was tummy deep in the water and so funny to watch as he obviously didn't like his tail being wet, so was constantly trying to keep it out of the water.

We went for a cool off dip in the pool, and a cold drink and burger lunch at the very slow restaurant as Heidz was feeling a little queezy. We met a well-travelled English lady called Charlotte who runs a B&B in Cornwall and was on holiday exploring West Africa, while it's winter in the UK. She too was a little disappointed by Mole and was very interested in our trip and Duzi2.

It was just as well we did pack up the tent earlier as the baboons returned later and caused chaos with two new cars and would have shredded the tent. Thank goodness we also had our curtains up as they couldn't see inside Duzi2 so lost interest and left her/him alone. Eventually we left Mole and were on our way to Wechiau Community Hippo Sanctuary near Ga, on a rather bad sand road. We got to the sanctuary's Visitor Centre and were shown their booklet of tour and accommodation options for visitors to chose from. With us having no space to take a guide, we were given a map of how to get to the tourist lodge to meet Joshua and camp there. We drove on past the tourist lodge to the river. The river is quite far from the lodge, and too far to see or hear hippo's from, but would've been mozzi heaven if we'd camped there. The moon was full tonight so we had perfect natural light. Funds from the sanctuary have also been used to provide solar lights, which the community have in their homes for the children to do homework under.

This community run project has been a huge success for both the community and the hippos. There is now a hippo population of about 24 hippos starting from only 8 a few years ago. There are 17 communities involved in the sanctuary and each community benefits. There are now 3 boreholes for them to get fresh, clean water from, they've built a lovely new community school for the children and each home has a solar light inside. They all welcome you as you drive through and this must be due to the fact they know tourists mean more gains for them.

We went to sleep to absolute silence, a welcomed change from Mole.

Monday 24th December 2007: Wechiau Community Hippo Sanctuary, Ghana

GPS Info: N09° 44' 11.5" W02° 46' 12.7"

Miles Today: 281 Total Miles: 9200

Up early for our pirogue ride on the Black Volta River, to see the hippos. Heidz still wasn't feeling good today so things were a bit delayed this morning. We got on to the water with Joshua and his brother, our pirogue driver. We pushed off into the beautiful, wide and fairly fast flowing Black Volta and enjoyed the natural bush around us. It was quite cool and very green, totally different from the Ghana we've seen so far.

Being on the water made us both miss our canoeing so much. All you Richmond paddlers are so lucky to be able to paddle where you do, cos it's only when you're away from paddling for so long, you appreciate how lucky we were. This doesn't really help much when it's so cold in the UK right now we know.

We were on the water for about 2 hours, going up and down the river looking for hippos. We did stop off to explore the Hippo Hide, a wooden platform structure which you can camp on, sleeping under mozzi nets and the stars, which you are able to see here. Even though we missed the hippos, we did manage to see many water birds, like herons and the stunning malakite king fisher, which are small and royal blue with golden orange breasts.

We walked back to Duzi2 and sheltered in the shade eating breakfast as the sun was now hot. We decided to try and drive to spend tonight, Christmas Eve, in Bui National Park, hoping it would be much better than Mole. We set off on the recently tarred road from Wechiau through Ga, which then turned into a road under construction and rutted red sand. We carried on down to Wenchi before turning onto a 55km, (which seemed like far more), stretch of dirt going to Bui National Park.

Today was another day of fires and lots of black burnt landscapes. Neither of us were terribly hopeful as we got closer to Bui, as the visibility became very poor and there were fires burning everywhere. We also passed through three particularly aggressive villages where the people shouted at us, waving fists and seemed very angry. On our approach to Bui, we passed through some high surrounding hills and the entrance to Bui Dam. We finally reached the entrance to Bui National Park, which looked like a run down, warped trailer park full of people. The wooden mobile home units were all falling down and warped and lots of villagers swarmed around the car asking for things when we stopped to enquire about camping for the night in the park. We were told we could camp in this over-crowded run-down village as it was too late to enter the park and could go into the park with a guide tomorrow morning. Alternatively, we could drive back to the dam and camp near the Chinese settlement, in an area that had supposedly been cleared of trees and return in the morning.

So we set off in search of a camping spot near the dam, only to realise no such area existed and these village people were even more aggressive. With the light fading fast and no option of a bush camp, we both decided to break the driving at night rule and head south towards the coast. Just the Christmas Eve we'd both planned!!.

Driving with headlights and all 4 spots on bright, we back tracked our way on the rutted and bumpy dirt track through many dark busy villages with everyone and their animals celebrating Christmas Eve on or close to the unlight narrow streets. Back to Wenchi, and onto Techiman on dirt, dark, narrow, truck-filled and sometimes poorly tarred roads. We had a horrible dark drive until we eventually stopped at a Goil petrol station at 9pm to camp there. We'd passed through many police stops all asking for their Christmas gift from us only to be told we didn't have for them as we don't even have for ourselves!

While we were driving something ate us both alive. We sprayed with the insect repellant spray we bought in Ouagadougou to try and save our blood and keep us sane before we scratched ourselves to pieces. When we stopped and got out of Duzi2, we were both covered in very red swollen bites on our feet and legs. These were SO itchy!

This had to be one of our lowest lows, spending Christmas Eve in a petrol station, but the petrol station staff were amazing and so welcoming to us. It was a new station, only having been open for 3 months, with brand new showers and loos! We showered and Ross tried valiantly to cheer Heidz up over a cold, tinned, vienna sausage hot-dog dinner. Tears were shed and we both resolved to save Christmas until we were in a nicer place and could stop to celebrate properly.

Tuesday 25th December 2007: Goil Petrol Station, Techiman, Ghana

GPS Info: N07° 32' 44" W01° 56' 15.6"

Miles Today: 226 Total Miles: 9426

Up to continue our drive to reach the beautiful Ghanaian coast. We enjoyed our chocolate muesli for Christmas breakfast for Christmas morning.

Wished the kind people at the garage a happy Christmas and were on our way. The roads were much quieter today and less congested with people and animals, and no police checks. Just as well we didn't carry on driving last night, as the tar narrowed to only half a lane in some places, with big pot holes and we would have missed the tropical rainforest/jungle scenery we drove through today, which was really very beautiful.

We drove from Techiman to Kumasi arriving in Kumasi market, the biggest market in Africa, at midday. We ended up queued in a lane that looked like a taxi stop, but was just traffic standing dead still. It was hard to distinguish where the road was through all the hundreds of people selling or trying to get to the market to buy. Four lanes were created out of two and road sellers were still trying to squeeze through to sell a Ghanaian flag or other bits and pieces to people in cars and tro-tro taxi's.

We decided to give looking at the 'kente' cloths, famously sold in Kumasi market, a skip as it was so hot and there were too many people being Christmas Day.

We bought two phonecards to be able to phone home with, a Christmas treat. The lady who sold them to us said she knows the cards worked, but couldn't guarantee if we would be able to find call boxes in Ghana that worked...this turned out to be very true. After about 8 call attempts on 4 different call box points through to Heid's family, where she could hear her mom but her mom couldn't hear her, a beautiful Ghanaian girl came to show us we needed to push a button when the call was answered for them to hear us. Hooray! It is true that most call boxes didn't work though. It was so lovely to be able to catch up on family news and hear about Emily, the new arrival to Claire and Duane, and talk to the whole family on the speaker phone. Heidz was at a rather low point on the phonecall, but cheered up and is really enjoying the trip which didn't seem to come across when Clint asked.

The vegetation changed quite dramatically today and we both were left feeling very small compared with the huge dense trees growing in the forest / jungles around us. We are both puzzled as to what the difference is between a forest and a jungle, any answers from any of you would be very helpful. The trees were all different shades of green and so dense. There were tall and short trees and lots of creeping vines wrapped around both. On the roads we passed many logging trucks carrying huge cut up sections of trees and bags of cocoa beans. Between Kumasi and Cape Coast the jungle / forest was really dense and sometimes it was quite dark to drive through where the trees and vines grew high and joined above the road, forming natural archways of greenery.

It was dark by the time we reached Cape Coast and all the police were out stopping everywhere asking for their Christmas present. Ross stopped to have a lovely chat with his folks, who had enjoyed their Christmas celebrations with the Steads on their farm. At last we were at the coast! We looked for a place called Ko-Sa, which we'd read recommendations about through Big Sky's website and after asking many people including policemen at checks, we found it. We arrived at about 8.30pm with brights on and had a smiley reception by Kingsley. We parked away from the coconut trees, peeled out of the hot car and were welcomed by Nicole and Annelies to sit and enjoy a delicious tuna, garlic and tomato pasta Christmas dinner with Christmas music, decorations and a small decorated Christmas tree. Now it's Christmas!

Nicole & Patrick and Annelies & Nol, co-own Ko-Sa and have only owned it for 6 months, so it was also their first very hot African Christmas. Nicole and Patrick had done a 4 month African overland expedition on the east coast a few years ago also in a Landy, with a roof top tent mounted out the back, like ours, so were very inquisitive. After a cool off shower we were both very ready for bed and keen to see the beauty that would greet us in the morning. Tomorrow we'll open up 'the Christmas box' which has all our Christmas goodies and the presents we've been given from our families.

We both finally collapsed in our clothes in the tent, and went to sleep totally exhausted.

Wednesday 26th December 2007: KO-SA Guest House, Elmina, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 03' 41.1" W01° 26' 25.8"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 9426

We woke up to the sound of the sea, distant waves crashing and then looked out of the tent onto the beach about 50metres away. We went on to the beach and the tide was quite far out. The water was so warm, like a warm bath. We had a lovely swim in the sea, before going back to Duzi2 for a yummy pancake breakfast.We had pancakes with nutella, and pancakes with cinnamon and syrup for breakfast. Such an easy thing to bring along to make a delicious and different breakfast. Now it felt like Christmas.

Opening up our Christmas box, we were so spoilt by our families in South Africa with so many long-missed, clever Christmas treats. We both got a fancy expedition meal in a bag, roast lamb with mint sauce, roast veggies and mash potato for Heidz and Honey Soy Chicken with veggies for Ross. We also got zoo biscuits, jellytots, licourice, jungle oat bars, sweets, soups, juice mixes, pringles, salt & vinegar cheddar melts, dried fruit bars, etc. Both Moms couldn't have added in anything better. Thank you both, you made us very happy.

It got very hot and humid so after breakfast we made up some delicious Christmas present orange juice and drank the whole litre before going onto the beach. We went down to the beach in front of Ko-Sa to read and relax, under the naturally growing coconut palms which provide shade.

The sea has strong currents, but there is a natural rock pool which is perfectly protected from currents for you to swim in. We spent most of the day chilling in the shade as the sun is so hot, we would've got burnt. There were little kids trying to sell coconuts for you to drink and then they skillfully chop them open with a panga, for you to use the top lid as a scoop to scoop out the fruit. The problem is that they pick the coconuts when they are very green so the milk is more like water and there's no or very little fruit inside to scoop. We didn't buy any as they seemed to be sneeking around and looking out suspiciously, when one of them climbed up the coconut trees to pick the coconuts, making us think they weren't supposed to be doing this, especially on Ko-Sa trees!

We walked quite far along the beach looking for shells, especially whole cowries, a rarety. We got to many parts of the beach which made us think of Robinson Crusoe. The beach was littered with plastic though and all sorts of other rubbish which must float in from the ships at sea or somewhere. This spoilt the beach, and is something we haven't seen at Ko-Sa, because they sweep their section of beach clean every morning.

We watched the sunset over the sea and returned back to Ko-Sa to shower, cover up and get ready for our Christmas dinner. We used our bushlight for the first time which gave fantastic light and only uses a candle. Ross's parents had given this to him for his birthday last year. We put out Christmas serviettes, Christmas crackers and then added the boiling cup of water to our fancy meals in a bag. Our mouths were watering while we waited the 10minutes and then we savoured every mouthful of our delicious instant meals. These were SO yummy thank you Mom and Dad.

While we were eating we met Ibriham, the night watchman at Ko-Sa, who we'd asked directions from last night on the main road. He was very interesting to speak to and has travelled so much. He even has most of one of his legs completely reconstructed due to being knocked over by a car. He told us he's so happy because he can walk, run, etc, something he was told he would never be able to do when he had his accident.

He's a nightwatchman by night and a farmer by day farming cassava, pineapples and something else. Earlier on in the day we'd also met a young boy called John who had a very sad story, but is trying so hard to earn money to change his destiny. He was telling us that the locals are either fishermen or farmers. Some days the fishermen don't catch anything, so then they obviously can't sell anything and they have no food for their families to eat either. Life is hard here.

There was no air movement tonight so we decided to fold up the fly sheet sides to try and get some movement through the tent. We both collapsed facing the wrong way in the tent, gazing at the stars, while lying on top of the bedding for the whole night. Shows how tired we were.

Thursday 27th December 2007: KO-SA Guest House, Elmina, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 03' 41.1" W01° 26' 25.8"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 9426

It was so hot very early so we got up and out of the tent and on to the beach early. We spent hours in the sea. The water is very salty and is so easy to float in. We had such a ball enjoying just stopping together and having fun. On our way out of the water, we were "accosted" by three young boys who wanted to play with us in the water. Two of them were brothers on holiday from Accra, staying with family in Ampenyi, and the other a local village boy. We had hours of fun with them, climbing on Ross's shoulders and jumping off, floating on our backs while we took them deeper than they were comfortable going on their own, having all sorts of various races and helping them to float, which they were amazed by.

We pretty much spent the whole day in the water and all afternoon playing with these lovely boys. When we did eventually get out due to burning eyes, we watched some local fisherman using nets to catch little fish from the shore. Our little friends were explaining the fish and techniques to us. This was so special. It was so easy to spend this time and joke and play around with them because of the common English link.

That evening we were treated to some Ghanaian dancers who came from a nearby village to do a dance show for the guests at Ko-Sa. It was good to see and so different to the traditional Zulu dancing we know, but we both struggled to stay awake. The dancers danced to a constantly beating drum, which sounded pretty much the same for each dance, but the dances were quite different. It was amazing to see them move and be so precise for an hour in the heat, which totally sapped us of energy.

Friday 28th December 2007: KO-SA Guest House, Elmina, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 03' 41.1" W01° 26' 25.8"

Miles Today: 72 Total Miles: 9498

We left Ko-Sa in the mid morning hoping to get a spot in Green Turtle Lodge, even though we'd been told it was full. That's the great thing about Duzi2, we can camp anywhere as long as we can park. We waved good-bye to Nicole, Patrick and Annelies wishing them well in their new venture. Ko-Sa was nice, but a lot more expensive than we were expecting to spend, charging C10 per night to camp and their meals started from C5 upwards.

It wasn't far to Dixcove from Elmina so we stopped in at Butre Beach to look at the beach there and some huge beach resorts. The beaches were long and open with coconut palms growing naturally on the beach.

We drove the rather rough short road from Dixcove to Akwidaa and Green Turtle Lodge to realise we'd arrived in paradise!!! Perfectly long, open sandy beaches with short, fat coconut palms as shade. Beautiful cottages and open showers, so you shower under the stars or banana leaves, depending on which one you use. It was such a beautiful place with so many friendly people.

We were shown to where we could camp and were so excited to see a white Toyota we'd got to know in Ouagadougou...Gerhard and Theresa! Yay at long last we'd caught up with them! Parked next to them was a green landy with another lovely couple Kenneth, a South African and Jo, an Aussie (www.heiwa-yume.co.uk), who we clicked with straight away. After much chatting, laughing, introductions and catching up we ordered a highly recommened dinner to enjoy with Gerhard and Theresa. C5 each for a delicious mango chicken and vegetable stirfry with rice and a further C2 for a chocolate fruit fondue with melted Kingsbite Ghanaian chocolate and fresh pineapple and banana pieces to dip. Our fondues reminded us of the chocolate fountain at your wedding Melis and Karl.

With the onshore breeze blowing we got into our tent and contentedly fell asleep.

Saturday 29th December 2007: Green Turtle Lodge, Akwidaa (Dixcove), Ghana

GPS Info: N04° 45' 30.4" W02° 01' 19.5"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 9498

Wow, what a beautiful view. We woke up to the sound of long, rolling waves crashing on the beach about 20metres from Duzi2. We had a quick swim before enjoying a yummy Green Turtle breakfast - their delicious homemade muesli (C1.50) and Ross enjoying a half-English (C3), missing the bacon. The lodge really was full with lots of people staying in every room, every tent and three overland vehicles with their roof tents.

We enjoyed chatting to Gerhard and Theresa, and Kenneth and Jo, our fellow overlanders. We also met Bonny, a jovial and bubbly American who's travelling with her husband and sister around West Africa to Cameroon on public transport and then flying to Ethiopia. She was a farmer originally from Montana, lucky lass. We met Dee, a very bubbly South African from Cape Town, out on holiday in Ghana. The recent news of Jacob Zuma becoming 'President of South Africa' became a very alarming and puzzling issue. Bonny also had some interesting things to say about 'Bushy'.

We completely chilled today. We got out the lilo and pumped it up, which was such fun in the sea, once we got passed the huge dumping breakers. We even managed to both balance on it floating for ages in the sea. We spent ages in the water as it got quite hot and the sea was lovely and clean. We also unpacked the hammocks and Ross ingeniously strung them from Duzi2 to a coconut palm nearby so we could read our long travelled magazines. It was worth bringing the lilo and the hammocks as we'd got to the point that if we didn't use them or they were useless we'd ditch them and have more space.

A very friendly and greenly envious young American couple, John and Becki arrived to stay in the hut behind us. Becki has been volunteering at a monkey sanctuary near Hoe, the second biggest monkey sanctuary in Ghana, which they both recommended us to pop in at. John is off to work in Seattle, lucky him. They both loved Duzi2 and were very envious of our trip.

We witnessed a beautiful sunset over the sea and island to the right of us. We also treated ourselves to a Green Turtle dinner, which was really tasty and worth it's C5. The mozzies came out and had a good munch on our legs, ankles and Heidi's bum, how we just don't know!

We are in true paradise. A perfect, uninterupted view of the sea, shaded by coconut palms. We were all joking around this evening at dinner, that life here is so hard. We are all so exhausted by the end of the day as we have such big decisions to make, do we swim now or later, etc.

Theresa sat with us on the beach enjoying a little sea breeze, looking at the stars and watching flashes of lighting in the distant skies when John came running out of the darkness to our lantern saying there was a turtle who had come up on to the beach, just passed where they were sitting. We got up and couldn't believe our ears. We ran back to tell Jo and Kenneth both fast asleep in their tent. The turtle came right up close to the front of Green Turtle Lodge.

She dug a deep (30cm), square hole with her flippers in which she was going to lay her 70 or so eggs, but someone took a flash photo and then shone their head torch straight at her, so she quickly moved on about 10 metres away and redug in the dark. There were lots of people out to watch, but luckily no one disturbed her with lights this time. I went to watch and listen. Every now and then the guard would shine his dull torch to see what was happeneing. She redug another hole, spraying sand all over, lowered her body into it and then started to lay. It was such an exhausting process and done with what seem like fairly clumsy limbs. After about 20minutes, she started spraying sand with her front and back flippers over the hole to cover the eggs and smooth the area so it's hard to find exactly where the hole was. She very quickly made her way back down the sand and into the sea and disappeared with the first wave. Her eggs will lie in the sand for about 21 days and when they hatch, the tiny little turtles have to get from where they were laid, way above the high water mark, to the sea all on their own, passed the kites and vultures, and into the rough, dumping sea and passed the predators waiting for them in the shallows of the water. Wow. What a thing to experience.

John, Anoushka, Ross and I covered over the turtle tracks up from the sea to try and give these turtles a chance against the prowling people who dig up the eggs.

We met up with Bonny and were chatting to her until quite late. While we were chatting, a man came along the beach flashing a torch, we thought he was looking for turtle tracks. He got closer to Green Turtle and to where the new eggs were. Ross flashed back at him to warn him off that people were still there. He continued to approach and said he was the night watchman from Safari Beach, a place next door, and if we wanted to see a turtle laying eggs we should go with him further down the beach. We followed and the three of us were treated to a much bigger green turtle laying at a much quicker rate. She thumped the ground with her body when she'd finished laying, to almost compact the ground around her eggs, before she flicked the sand over them. She moved much quicker, and was very quiet. We nearly missed her returning to the sea due to her speed, but she too disappeared into the first wave and was gone. We covered and stomped over her tracks too so hopefully these eggs will survive too. We were so spoilt. It was about midnight when we got back to the tent and were so amazed at what we'd seen and then saw the red full moon rise.

Sunday 30th December 2007: Green Turtle Lodge, Akwidaa (Dixcove), Ghana

GPS Info: N04° 45' 30.4" W02° 01' 19.5"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 9498

We woke up early to walk to 'The Secret Beach' with Kenneth, Jo, Theresa, Mary (an American) and us two. It's about a 3 hour round trip, which we started at 6.15am to get back before it got really hot. On our way along the beach we saw turtle tracks in the sand of where a turtle had obviously come up to lay its eggs last night, but there was evidence of the eggs being stolen by humans. This is a real problem along this coastline. The villagers capture and sell or eat the turtle in their fishing nets and they steal the eggs once they've been laid. The walk led us over a rather steep rocky part onto a beach full of whole shells - cowries, twirly shellls, sea urchins and loads more. Theresa and Heids had bought plastic bags along to collect shells in. They walked slowly scanning the beach for beautiful shells while Ross also found some beautiful shells to add to our collection. You needed to be very picky about what you wanted to collect otherwise you could pick up practically the whole beach.

The beach was beautiful and had a real Robinson Crusoe feel about it. It was very worth the walk and a secret we were both pleased we'd found out about. The walk back was hot and seemed a lot further than the walk there, but was good exercise and we were both glad we'd started early.

On our way back we saw a dead turtle in the sand, not quite the kind of turtle sightings we were hoping for.

We were both hungry after our long early walk and enjoyed a very yummy Green Turtle breakfast (Half English minus the bacon for C3.00 with omlettes on toast for C1.50). After breakfast there was lots of banter and laughing with Gerhard, Theresa, Kenneth, Jo and another bubbly South African Dee, from Cape Town. The English and Afrikaans mixed and it was so nice to have so many lovely people around all loving everything about the 'busy-ness of life' at Green Turtle Lodge - doing as little as possible.

We found out that Tom and Jo, the owners of Green Turtle Lodge have a whole lot of volunteers coming to stay for a few weeks to patrol the beaches and protect the turtles, from early January. They were excited to hear about the turtles laying, potentially three quite close to the lodge.

We'd noticed tracks coming quite close to Duzi2 yesterday morning so we showed the guard where and hope they'll make it. Tom has seen the babies making the trip to the sea before. Green turtles come on to the beaches to lay their eggs between December and February, so we are really lucky to have seen two last night.

After having wonderful showers under natural light, we decided to cook our own dinner for a change, as everything on the menu was fish. Heidz had had baraccuda for dinner last night and it was full of bones, so wasn't keen on more and with Ross still not a huge fish fan, we made a pasta pesto dinner, but ordered chocolate fondue with fruit to dip for pudding which was delivered to us at the car.

Monday 31st December 2007: Green Turtle Lodge, Akwidaa (Dixcove), Ghana

GPS Info: N04° 45' 30.4" W02° 01' 19.5"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 9498

Last night the onshore wind stopped and we literally baked in our tent. After not much sleep and high humidity we were up early and enjoyed another social breakfast with everyone. Kenneth and Jo tried to teach Ross and I how to play 'Yatsi' a game involving 5 die, thirteen throws and each turn needing to count to fill each box you need to get. Ross beat Kenneth, which meant this was going to be one of many games. Heidz had a terrible game and missed bonuses and ended up with many zeros in the boxes which should've been high scores. Oh well future games might redeem her.

The weather was pretty cloudy and grey all day with a high humidity. In the middle of the day, the heavens opened and it rained hard for quite a long time. Having the rain provided us with water to wash Duzi2, which was something we'd been wanting to do since we'd got here. We got drenched, but it was a bit of a relief after the stifling heat we'd had up until then.

Kenneth had offered to make us a steak braai to make up for our missed Christmas Eve. He had swept the area, dug the pit for the fire and collected the fire wood, but then the rains came so we delayed until tomorrow night, Gerhard and Theresa's last night here.

We enjoyed a buffet dinner with Gerhard, Theresa, Kenneth and Jo and Anoushka, a Pole from Finland who's volunteering for a VSO in Navrongo. After dinner there were some traditional Ghanaian dancers who did dancing for us, most of them being children, some even as young as 6 or 7. One little boy came over pulling Heidz by the hand to join him dancing. This was difficult because they move so quickly and as soon as you've got one move they change it. It was so hot Heidz had to leave before she passed out and joined Ross and Gerhard and Theresa trying to find a cool spot on the beach (not achieved). After the dancers finished, a huge bonfire was lit and everyone watched the high flames. The drums continued to beat away and some people carried on dancing.

We had a toast at 12am South African time to our parents and at 12am Ghana and UK time we all enjoyed fireworks on the beach! Real fireworks on this stretch of beach in the middle of nowhere. Good wishes were spread and some even sang Auld Lang Syne. We were tired and thankfully a breeze did pick up so we managed to sleep.

Tuesday 1st January 2008: Green Turtle Lodge, Akwidaa (Dixcove), Ghana

GPS Info: N04° 45' 30.4" W02° 01' 19.5"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 9498

Today was also cloudy and quite cool. We went for our regular delicious and very social Green Turtle breakfast and then spent the day relaxing and reading magazines, something we are not very good at, or used to doing. The waves were enormous and crashed hard on the shore. The tide was also very high all day. Jo had been dumped and lost her snorkel and nearly her flippers while she was trying to get out.

Ross's left foot is looking a bit infected. It was a bite we got on our way to Bui NP on the 24th Dec that he's scratched and now it doesn't look very good. By evening, it looked like there might be something inside. After much pulling and pushing, we put some drawing medicine on it, which he'd been given before when he had a spider bite, to try and draw whatever it was out. Out came the medical box and we tried to clean it with detol and savlon, covering it with a dressing, especially as everything around here is beach sand.

We spent the day relaxing, reading, playing Yatsi and had a fabulous feast of a meal thanks to Kenneth and Jo. Steak, a huge variety of salads (more than on last nights buffet) and even pudding of roasted bananas, with chocolate and honey and appricots for Heidz, as she's not a banana fan.

We retired to bed after another hard day in Africa...

Wednesday 2nd January 2008: Green Turtle Lodge, Akwidaa (Dixcove), Ghana

GPS Info: N04° 45' 30.4" W02° 01' 19.5"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 9498

Gerhard and Theresa left after breakfast this morning, so we were all up early to have breakfast with them. It was sad waving good-bye, but we hope to see them again before they ship out of Accra to Cape Town or Walvis Bay. If not before, then definitely in Windhoek at Joe's Cafe / Beer House for some real meat and in Otjo for some belina (some doughnut type sweet pastry). They, especially Gerhard, can't wait to get to Namibia.

We spent some of the day tinkering on Duzi2 fixing the indicator lights which had stopped working, check out what was going on with our steering and where the rattle was coming from in the front dash, etc. Kenneth was also tinkering away. They've been having a problem with their batteries and with their fridge.

The waves were again huge and real crashers. I wasn't that happy about going in alone and Ross wanted to keep his foot dry. It also wasn't that warm today, surprisingly.

We had our own early dinner and joined Jo, Kenneth and Dee for a few drinks. We had loads of laughs and had an evening match of Yatsi, which Ross won outright.

Ross's foot is very red and looks sore. It's swollen and is feeling hot in some parts. We carried on cleaning it, applying anticeptic cream on it and trying to keep it clean, by covering it. He prodded some more with a clean needle, but this didn't seem to help either. Even after not doing very much and keeping it up as much as possible it doesn't seem to be getting better. We've decided we'll go to the hospital tomorrow.

Kenneth and Jo were also concerned when they saw Ross's foot and were keen to try and help us out from their medical box and book (which lists loads of drugs and their uses, and other very helpful information). After Yatsi they boiled up some water and added salt to make a saline solution to cleanse his sore and then gave us some betadine ointment to put on, before raiding their dressings.

Thursday 3rd January 2008: Green Turtle Lodge, Akwidaa (Dixcove), Ghana

GPS Info: N04° 45' 30.4" W02° 01' 19.5"

Miles Today: 14 Total Miles: 9512

Today was a sunny, hot and perfect day for the beach. We had originally decided to leave to leave today and start to head towards Accra, but this would've meant getting to Accra, where there's no camping on a weekend. We also wanted to try to get a doctor to see Ross's foot as soon as possible. Neither of us wanted to stay any longer in Accra than we needed to so we decided to rather spend another day here where it was only C2.00 per person to camp. We'd also spoken to Kenneth and Jo who were keen to travel with us for a few days and try and get to Accra together.

Ross's foot looked really horrible this morning. We decided last night that if there was no improvement by this morning, we'd ask Tom, the owner, where to go for medical advice. Well Tom and Jo, his wife, were nowhere to be found this morning so we asked the kitchen staff who recommended we go to the Medical Clinic in Dixcove, where Tom has been going due to the problem he's been having with his foot.

We set off in Duzi2 and found the medical centre/hospital without any problem. On our way we passed the Dixcove fortress also involved in Ghana's ancient slave history. The medical clinic / hospital was a big building with many different parts - theatres, maternity wards, out-patients, x-ray rooms, doctors consulting rooms, a medical dispensary, etc. It was all clean and working well.

We had to pay C2.00 to register Ross with the Ghana Health Service and then he had his temperature, blood pressure and weight taken, by a lovely gentle smiley nurse dressed in a fresh and cheerful pink uniform. All good. From there we went to sit and wait our turn to see a doctor. While we were sitting on the bench, we met a very proud new father of 3 weeks holding his prize, Laurence. He was so interesting to talk to and was so inquisitive about our trip. His thinking is so different to most Ghanaians we've met. He was saying they only want one child as then he, Laurence, could have the best opportunities in life, etc.

It was Ross's turn to go in and be seen by a cheerful doctor who really seemed to know his stuff. We told him we've been cleaning the bite and putting anti-septic on and that Ross had started taking Erythromycin, an antibiotic we had with us. All this was good, but he said we should now wash the wound with saline water, boiled water with salt, and cover it with a wet gauze and a dry gauze taped on for it to breathe. He also prescribed a different anti-biotic, Flucloxacillin, for Ross to take every 6 hours. He said it should be better and form a scab in 3 to 4 days, from which time we should leave it open. Hopefully this will be the case, otherwise we'll go again to the hospital in Accra.

With peace of mind we headed back to Green Turtle quite late and everyone was relieved to hear the doctors opinion. We ordered an early dinner and had our last shower in the lovely rocky starlit showers. Dinner was very good and later we were joined by Kenneth trying to plan our future route and Dee and her two frightfully posh English friends, who were staying at Safari Beach next door. It was hysterical to hear the mick being taken out of them without them having a clue.

Friday 4th January 2008: Green Turtle Lodge, Akwidaa (Dixcove), Ghana

GPS Info: N04° 45' 30.4" W02° 01' 19.5"

Miles Today: 111 Total Miles: 9623

We enjoyed our last Green Turtle breakfast with Kenneth, Jo and Dee, who was also leaving today. There was a whole new crowd of people at the lodge and them all seemed very separate. We drove through Dixcove and Takoradi and on to Cape Coast Castle. We stopped at a restaurant opposite the castle for an extremely s l o w lunch, and then we entered into the castle (C6.50 each). We did a very dramatic tour of the castle with a guide and were reminded again quite realistically about how shocking the conditions were for the slaves. We went through the 'Gate of no return', where the slaves walked out on to the slave ships before being shipped off, but returned again through 'The Gate of return' something the guide seemed to be proud of. We met John and Becki in the castle, and probably and sadly wont see them again.

From the castle we filled up with fuel before heading northwards to Jukwa to check out our options for tonights camp. We stopped in Hans' Cottage, a nice place built on stilts with a lake around it which has crocs in it, but quite far from Kakum for an early morning canopy walk. We drove on to an animal sanctuary someone from Green Turtle had recommended to Kenneth. The Bradt Ghana guide also said it had a swimming pool and rooms to sleep 12. Well.....we got to the gate to be met by Dennis, the owner who on being asked by Ross if he had space for two landrovers to camp, replied yes rather surprised. He opened the gate saying there was no electricity and we need to use the bush as a toilet...

We both parked and met Annette, his wife. They introduced us to the various monkeys - mona and white spotted nose monkeys, which they've rescued and have caged. They also had two young sloths and civet kittens. Each of the animals they have have been brought to them by hunters who have killed the parents and bring the babies to them to care for. It was a very strange place and we found out we were the first campers they've ever had!!! There is no electricity anywhere, not even in their house, which isn't complete and they've been living there for 4 years. There is also no water and there seems to have been a lot of disasters that have happened repeatedly.

We, with Jo, made a pasta and sauce dinner for all of us, and were treated to a table cloth and candles which they laid out for us. After stories about the big cobras and many other snakes they'd found around and in the house, we returned down the dangerously Ghanaian stairs to the darkness of our roof top tents to do our teeth and go to the loo in the bush (probably also snake infested!).

Saturday 5th January 2008: Monkey Forest Resort, Kakum, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 18' 55.0" W01° 22' 29.2"

Miles Today: 36 Total Miles: 9659

Up early to get to Kakum National Park to do the first canopy walk, around 8am'ish before the crowds arrive, and hoping to see some monkeys in the forests while we walked. Mr Mooney, one of the monkeys at the animal sanctuary, came to greet us 'Good Morning' draped over Annette.

We arrived at Kakum at 8.15am and were lucky enough to go as a group on the first walk with the four of us (Ross, Kenneth, Jo and myself), together with a Dutch couple and another couple. We had a very helpful guide, Ben, who knew a lot about the forest trees. He pointed out an umbrella tree, which has leaves like a cabbage tree, and when you cut it's roots, gives fresh, clean drinking water.

It was really hot and humid in the tropical rainforest and the different variations of green were amazing. We got to the canopy walk, a series of seven suspended swing walk-ways raised above the tree canopy stretching over 350metres, so you look down onto the forest layers below.

Surprisingly Heidz wasn't even worried about the height, as she normally is. The walk-ways get inspected every morning and the ropes gets replaced every six months, so that made us feel safe. You walk on narrow, wooden planks with netted rope sides that come up to just above your elbow. No way you can fall out!

It was amazing walking so high above a dense, lush green forest with all different trees below. You can only walk with two people on the walk-way at a time, you get to a rest platform around a tree before you start the next walk-way. It's so wierd to see others walking suspended so high up. Ross and Kenneth had fun rocking and bouncing each other while Jo and I were busy trying to take photos to capture where we were. It cost us C9.00 each, which was well worth it. We were even really lucky to see monkeys playing in the trees below us in the distance. They just free fell from the high branches landing in the branches far below and we weren't rushed through with lots of crowds. After our walk we stopped for a painstakingly slow breakfast in The Rainforest Restaurant, from where we saw the queues lengthening.

After breakfast we went back to Monkey Forest Resort, where we spent last night, where the boys filled up with more breakfast and then Annette took us on a tour of the animals they have saved. They have crocs, civet cats, gennets, a little deer, white spotted nose monkeys, mona monkeys and even two sloths. The place is nothing like it's website, and it's hard to imagine if it ever will be, but their plan is to be up and running within the next three weeks...mmm. The mercury was really rising and we were keen to get to Cape Coast to get to a bank to get money and head on towards Kokrobite, near Accra for our nights camp.

With new batteries in the walkie talkies, we were jabbering and joking on our drive. It was so great to be driving with another vehicle and with such a great couple who we get on so well with. Just a huge pity they are shipping from Accra to Cape Town, but maybe we'll meet in Namibia...

We drove in search of Biriwa Beach Hotel, where we were told we'd just missed Gerhard and Theresa. Wow, so smart and they allowed camping for only C2.00 each and they gave us a room to shower in.

We set up for the night, enjoying the breeze coming off the sea. We were given a room to share to shower in, which was so nice. Both landys cooked their own dinners, but we ate together. It's so strange to be in West Africa with two UK landys parked next to each other, both bought on ebay and both starting off their trips less than 15miles from each other - Duzi2 from Twickenham and Kenneth and Jo's from Kingston, newly christened 'the beast'.

Ross's foot seems really swollen and red this evening. It must be because we did a lot more walking today than we've done for a few days. He's been very good about taking his anti-biotics and anti-inflammatries, but it seems to be taking a long time to heal.

Sunday 6th January 2008: Biriwa Beach Hotel, Anomabu, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 09' 24.6" W01° 09' 27.0"

Miles Today: 74 Total Miles: 9733

We awoke to the sound of waves breaking on the beach below us, aren't we so spoilt? There was a cool on-shore sea breeze that blew last night which made sleeping very comfortable. Ross's foot is still not healing as quickly as we'd expected, and is still red and swollen, so we'll go for a second opinion in a hospital or clinic in Accra, if it doesn't heal up more.

We enjoyed a hotel breakfast together trying out their yummy pineapple marmalade, which was rather like sweet pineapple pulp. Yum yum.

We had loads to catch up for our updates, which Heidz tried to do under the comfort of ceiling fans above. We've stopped and enjoyed a wonderful break just enjoying doing nothing and chatting with friends, but haven't done anything to do with the diary updates. It was hard writing at Green Turtle as there was a lot of sea spray and we were a bit worried about what that would do to the laptop, especially after all the salty bits that had built up on the tent poles. We thus sat for hours this morning, trying to catch up from the 24th!

We left Biriwa following Kenneth and Jo armed with walkie-talkies which we'd all managed to get to work, in search of a chocolate milkshake and a place called Andy's Akwaaba-Lodge, (www.akwaaba-lodge.com), which Gerhard and Theresa had recommended near Kokrobite Beach, but not Big Milly's which seems to have become a crime and rasta hotspot. Eventually after some hard searching despite having instructions it was next door to Big Milly's and opposite a resort called something like Salabambo which wasn't completed yet, we found it.

This whole area was a dive with goofed rastas everywhere and not a nice vibe. We were amazed to see green grass and were welcomed into Andy's a nicer option. Gerhard and Theresa described their night at Milly's where they'd been forced to camp outside on the street in the parking bay as they couldn't fit into Big Milly's. We had a rather slow bite to eat and Ross tried a pineapple milkshake, which was very disappointing made from pineapple juice and powdered milk, no ice-cream. We were told not to go onto the beach because it's dangerous and if we did, not to take anything other than what we were wearing. We set up the tent and wrote out our fake itinery to give in with our visa applications at the Nigerian Embassy early tomorrow morning.

Ross's foot seems to be healing at last. The swelling has gone down a lot.

Monday 7th January 2008: Andy's , Kockrobite, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 29' 49.4" W00° 21' 46.4"

Miles Today: 43 Total Miles: 9776

We were up very early to get into Accra before the traffic built up and to be at the Nigerian High Commission when they opened. We congratulated Gerhard and Theresa on their 41st wedding anniversary before leaving. We were both very glad to leave Kokrobite Beach, a real waste of shoreline which has become crime ridden. We also planned to check out Kuku Cottage and / or the mission nearby to see about camping. On route to the Nigerian High Commission we met a very helpful estate agent on the roadside, who directed us to a place nearby for us to do photo-copies of all the various papers we knew we needed - duplicate copies of our passports, car ownership papers vehicle insurance, Ghana visa, etc. With this done, his brother drove to the new Nigerian High Commission in his taxi with us following behind.

The High Commission only opens at 10am, and we were early enough to wait a few minutes for them to open. We met the smiley lady where you sign in and the security guard at the entrance and were directed through to reception where we were given a list of requirements needed to apply for a visa, three of the six things we didn't have. We were told we needed more documents copied and thought we'd hand in our applications with whatever we had and see what happened. We completed the 3 page visa application form asking all sorts of details and then needed to duplicate this in a tiny box shop up the road. The Nigerians save on paper and money by making you do the running around and copying rather than giving you duplicate forms.

With all our paper-work together we handed in our applications and our SA passports together with $48 each (much cheaper than the $100 each fee on EU passports, we found out later). Our forms were checked and they demanded a copy of our carnet, which we refused as we said it was illegal but eventually they accepted our forms, so we hoped that meant they were accepted.

Basically the Ghana Cedi (C) is the same as the American Dollar ($) so whatever you pay in cedi's is the same in dollars.

From there we set off to find Kuku Cottage in Osu, only to find a rather deserted and delapidated place which has loads of taxi cars parked inside its grounds. We were met by a friendly lady named Margaret, but were both very disappointed and worried as this is a place we'd recommended Gerhard and Theresa and Kenneth and Jo to meet us at to spend tonight here. There were two loos, which looked broken and a shower upstairs which had no water. She also wanted to charge us C10 a night, but we managed to bargain down to C5 and then C3 each per night.

Now we knew where our "not so nice" sleeping option was, we set off to find the South African High Commission to find out about what visas we need for the upcoming countries. We'd read that South African's don't need visas for Benin and for Gabon, but we wanted to confirm this, and we thought we'd try and get a 'Letter of Invitation' from the SA Embassy to help with our future Angolan visa application, which is very difficult.

We had to wait in a wonderfully cool air-conditioned room to speak to a man about the visas for each future country. We handed him the list and a few minutes later he returned saying they couldn't tell us for certain as we would need to contact the SA representative in each of those countries to get the latest requirements. He also gave us a website [www.dfa.go.za] to look up. There was confusion about the Letter of Invitation as they didn't know what we were talking about. We were then told to go to another office and wait for a lady there.

We did and while waiting, met Piet Bester, a Counsellor for the South African government based in Accra, who is very interested about our car and trip. He told us he'd met two surfers who'd come up from SA a few months ago, which we knew about, and four farming couples who travelled our route about a year ago. He phoned his wife for their email info, so we could ask them all the questions we needed answered. While we were chatting to him, the lady we needed to see came out and said they don't issue this letter, but offered to fax a copy of our passports to the Angolan representative in Abuja to hopefully help our Angolan visa application, when we get there in a few days time. Piet's wife was coming to bring him something anyway so he told us to wait and he'd ask her when she arrived. It was so lovely waiting in air-conditioned coolness. After a few minutes, we met Dierdre, Piet's wife and Yolandi, their daughter. They very kindly invited us to come and stay in their garden for as long as we wanted while we are in Accra. They told us we'd have a shower and loo and could use their pool and internet. Wow. This was such a God send. We followed Dierdre and Yolandi back to their beautiful and big home, very close to where we'd started the Nigerian Embassy search earlier this morning.

We cannot believe how kind and warm the Bester family are. They welcomed us into their home as if we were family. It was Jan's, their eldest son's, 19th birthday, today. Piet came home not too long afterwards and we enjoyed a quick drink together. They very kindly invited us to join them for dinner. While we were chatting we mentioned that we hoped to take Duzi2 to Pitstop, a well known landy mechanic named Ian in Accra. Dierdre had his number and phoned him. He told us the other two couples were there camping and staying in his spare room, but were out at that moment so gave us their local number, which was a sim card he'd given them to use. We managed to phone the others and found out they'd been to Galitos (the old Nandos) for lunch and were staying at Ian's for the night and for Gerhard and Theresa's wedding anniversary celebrations, which they'd bought SA wine for from Shoprite! We enjoyed a three course out of this world feast with the Bester family. Tricolore salad starter, beef steak and veggies and ice-cream with real chocolate sauce. We had a very enjoyable and late evening, learning lots about world politics and South African wines. We never made it to Ian's, but will see them in the morning.

Ross's foot looks much better and he now has an ankle again.

Tuesday 8th January 2008: The Bester's Home, Accra, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 37' 05.4" W00° 11' 13.5"

Miles Today: 9 Total Miles: 9785

We got to Ian's, thank goodness for the GPS and knowing how to put in and store waypoints, thanks to Theresa, and Jo's landmark instructions.

The others were at an internet cafe nearby when we got there and we parked Duzi2, waiting for Ian to check what we needed done. Ross and Ian went for a drive and the loud rattle from the back was totally silent. How annoying! Ian looked very briefly over Duzi2 and then took off the stabilizing anti-roll bar and replaced the bushes, saying the noise could be that. The others then came back with all their shipping and flights booked and paid for. The finalities being very exciting for some and not so exciting for others. They left, but we'll meet up with them around Wli Falls over the weekend. Then Ian's workers took off the front wheels to swop them over and to adjust the shimmy's on the swivel housing to stop the wheels from wobbling. This is how Duzi2 sadly stood for the whole day. They couldn't fix the front passenger door handle, which Ross eventually MacGyverly fixed. We waited the whole day!

Eventually at about 4.50pm Ian told us he hoped we weren't planning on driving anywhere as they had damaged one of the seals while removing it and had the wrong size spare, and with it being nearly 5pm couldn't get another one. We were both VERY angry as we'd been sitting watching the lack of work and interest shown by Ian taking place all day. He offered for us to stay in his flat as we were too close to the living quarters of the staff's family who cook all night and in the early morning to sell food to people on their way to work in the early morning. His flat was full of mosquito's and spraying and burning 4 mozzi coils didn't seem to make any difference.

We were concerned about the Bester's needing to know about our movements and hacked off that we had to stay overnight when nothing had been done and when it wasn't a two day job! We needed to get away before we lost it with Ian, so caught a taxi to Galito's and eventually had Accra's Nando's, Ross's Christmas dinner. Not the same as Nando's, but an okay burger with nice chicken. We went to Creamy Inn hoping to get a chocolate milkshake, only to be told they, an ice-cream shop, were out of ice-cream. We walked around MaxMart a shop next door, which Dierdre had warned us was expensive and it was. We did buy some muesli, yoghurt and tinned fruit for breakfast, some Peaceful Sleep and Tabbard spray to help with the mozzies and some All-Gold tomato and onion mix, ideal for pasta sauces. We bought a cornetto type ice-cream which we ate watching the very easy, simple and clever pizza base press machine outside Pizza Inn, next to Galito's and Creamy Inn.

We got a taxi back and crawled into our sleeping bag inners under our mozzi net with more coils burning. It was so hot in the flat, even though there was a fan blowing full blast.

Wednesday 9th January 2008: Pitstop / Ian's Cars, Accra, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 34' 09.9" W00° 12' 18.9"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 9785

We wanted to be an early morning presence today as Ian had said Duzi2 would be ready by 10am, and it was far too hot to sleep in the flat.

Well he was quiet this morning without any other cars, so his car was worked on as he was preparing to drive to his house in the mountains on the way to Wli Falls, which he'd offered for the others to stay at. This was a good sign for us because it meant work would be done on Duzi2 with more of a sense of urgency today than yesterday, hopefully. Eventually at 10.30am Duzi2 was finished and we were landed with a bill with a full day's labour being charged for nothing yesterday. We managed to get him to drop the labour charge down slightly, and left disgusted by his workmanship and lack of interest or care. He's not someone we'd recommend, but that's probably because we watched what he did very closely and probably had too high expectations of him, being British. Unfortunately he has no competition so you're kind of stuck.

As we drove out of the garage the loud noise from the back re-appeared, something Ian had basically hinted he couldn't be held responsible for as he hadn't heard it, let alone the fact he hadn't even looked carefully for, or around the back wheels to find. Very annoyed we drove back to the Besters home and Piet was working from home trying to co-ordinate the foreign delegates and their equipment, who'd flown into Accra last night for the Africa Cup of Nations starting on the 20th or 21st of Jan. Ester was very kindly loading our washing into the washing machine, such a luxury.

We drove out to the new Accra mall close by to see the new Shoprite and Game. Mr Price isn't open yet. It was surreal walking through the shopping centre as it's just like the inside of The Pavilion and The Maritzburg Mall, but only has a few shops, with most not really open yet. We did a stock-up shop in Shoprite, which was huge and had mostly South African things. Bought some ProNutro for breakfast and other bits and pieces to tide us over the next few weeks of straight long driving. We went into Game which was just like SA and had Cadac gas bottles, something we've wanted from the start of the trip, but the connectors wouldn't fit onto the gas when it's mounted in the gas bottle holders on the outside of the car. They did have Zoo biscuits, luckily, as we had finished our Christmas packet today.

We popped into the pharmacy and had the pharmacist look at Ross's foot. She recommended we keep on doing what we're doing, but try to get an iodine based anticeptic, which we will do.

We got back to the Besters after being caught in lots of traffic, only to be invited to join them for an unexpected braai outside. Wow. What a feast! We had homemade scrummy borewors, tasty SA lamb (bought all the way in their hand luggage) and very delicious fried rice with veggies, followed by ice-cream and real chocolate sauce. We can't say thank you enough to the amazing family who have been so kind. We hope one day in the future we'll be able to repay them somehow. After another very interesting evening we couldn't believe how blessed we've been.

Thursday 10th January 2008: The Bester's Home, Accra, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 37' 05.4" W00° 11' 13.5"

Miles Today: 32 Total Miles: 9817

Heidz joined Dierdre and four other South African ex-pats in their aqua-aerobics class, which was only their second ever class and good fun. It's the first real form of exercise Heidz has done since we've been on the road so it was good to work the muscles again. Ross took the opportunity to take Duzi2 for a jet wash, much needed after all her/his time so close to the sea at Green Turtle. We were spoilt by Gregore who cooked us a yummy omlette with onions, tomatoes and herbs. He is a fantastic cook.

We went with Dierdre to a kente cloth weaving place inside a millitary base. It's owned by brothers who are real weavers. Jimmy, explained and showed us the process of how kente cloth is made. Kente weaving is a tradition and skill that is taught over many years and is passed down from generation to generation. While we were there we saw a young boy, about 10 years old, who was spinning the cotton on to the bobbins for the older weavers to use as the base of their cloths. Kente is woven cotton with rayon woven in to make patterns and geometric pictures. The people sit and weave all day using their toes holding the ropes which act as the pedals of their looms. The cloth is woven in long, narrow strips about 20cm wide and can be two or many colours in patterns or geometric block designs or simple pictures. The cloth was beautiful, but a bit too pricey for us.

We then went back to Shoprite to find flour which Dierdre and Gregore needed. We stopped and had a very nice chocolate milkshake, well worth the wait, at Creamy Inn, and chatted non-stop.

We got back in the afternoon and grabbed the first available chance to check on emails. We enjoyed reading all the Christmas and New Year messages and all your newsy emails. We're so sorry to hear Claire, Duane and baby Emily have had such a stressful start, but we're very glad to hear there's a good diagnosis and hopefully there'll be no more repeats of her stopping breathing. Then we got onto the very concerned family emails as to our safety and whereabouts. We never meant to cause such concern by simply stopping for a few days to relax after such a busy past 3 months of pretty constant driving. Internet and communication is scarce in Ghana and very unreliable if you do get to it. The cancellation of the Paris - Dakar Rally is not a big thing here at all. Some people are glad as maybe it will stop the corruption on its route. The incident of the tourists being shot over Christmas in Mauritania is also far removed from where we are as we've left the Arabic countries behind us and will not be going back to them. The trouble in Kenya is not a concern to travellers in the west of Africa, and is many many months away from us.

Nigeria always has trouble, but it's on it's coastline and is connected to the oil, which is the area we'll be avoiding with a wide birth and heading up to northern Nigeria. We have checked all this with Piet, the man most in the know. Sorry for any unnecessary concern. We are trying our hardest to keep you all as updated as possible and communicate as often as we can. If there is a problem, we'll definitely let you know by whatever means possible. We also found out Zuma is not the president of SA, but rather the new president of the ANC, which made much more sense as there had been no general election.

We hit the streets trying to find a Ghana Telecom phonecard, but had no joy so have now bought an MTN sim card and recharged it with lots of Cedi's, which was VERY expensive, and we're hoping isn't only locked to Ghana. We enjoyed another delicious and fun-filled gourmet family meal. After supper we sat writing up diary updates until late.

Friday 11th January 2008: The Bester's Home, Accra, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 37' 05.4" W00° 11' 13.5"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 9817

We spent until after 2am doing updates last night and were up early to try and finish as we planned to leave today and go to Wli Falls, near Hohoe, and then to cross into Togo at Badou. Piet and Dierdre are very familiar with Togo and Benin as they've lived in Togo for 4 years, as well as in Ethiopia for 5 years, a few years ago. They've travelled around Togo and Benin so were able to tell us of scenic roads to take and things to see, last night. We definitely don't need visas for either of these so the green passport does have some clout! Please don't worry if we don't communicate for a few days, we will when we get a chance. It will be sad leaving the Bester family as we feel we really know them and don't know when or where or if we'll ever see them again, but at least there is email nowadays. We are just so grateful to them for their kindness and warm hospitality.

We phoned our very relieved parents and explained roughly our intended route for the next few weeks, so hopefully anxiety levels will lower and our mobile will work to keep communication open.

We spent the day editing updates and uploading photos onto the website, to try and get up to date once again. We enjoyed our last dinner with the Bester family which again included lots of fascinating chats about Africa. We were invited to join them for breakfast tomorrow morning, they are so kind.

Saturday 12th January 2008: The Bester's House, Accra, Ghana

GPS Info: N05° 09' 24.6" W01° 09' 27.0"

Miles Today: 61 Total Miles: 9878

Up to a delicious breakfast with Piet and Dierdre who told us all about Ethiopia, their favourite African country. Eventually we dragged ourselves away only leaving at midday to go to the MTN shop in the Accra Mall to find out about our very expensive mobile phone mistake. After being told yesterday our mobile and credits will work outside Ghana, we were told they definitely wont! What an expensive waste!!! As we pulled into the car park, we saw the Oasis Overland truck, which we'd met in Marrakech pull out. We had our last real ice-cream from Ice-Cream Inn before leaving to head south. While we were enjoying our ice-cream, Louise and Popke walked passed. Louise was one of the South African aqua-aerobics ladies and Popke, her hubby working on a contract in Accra for a security company. They sat with us to find out more about our trip, give us some helpful tips and names of people to stay at when we get to Mozambique. They are such fun.

We managed to resist another trip into Shoprite and Game and got going to Wli Falls, Hohoe (Ho-Hoy). This was a straight forward drive and one we hoped to contact Gerhard and Theresa and Jo and Kenneth on to see where they were, before they all leave for Cape Town. We passed quite a lot of bush meat being sold along the side of the road, including a long, thick creamy coloured snake about the length of a 10year old child. On our way to Akosombo Dam, along the very narrow and dangerously guttered road, we were passed by two fast overland vehicles going in the opposite direction. We recognised these as being 'Obruni 2' and the envied Toyota. We hooted and managed to stop them after chasing them for a few kilometres, to say proper good-byes until we all meet again in Namibia in a few weeks time.

Akosombo Dam produces electricity for Ghana. Lake Volta (the other name) is the largest artificial lake in the world.

We got directions from Kenneth, of a nice place to stay on the side of Akosombo Dam (Lake Volta) called Afrikiko River Front Resort. He warned us to deny knowing 'the green landy who never paid for the internet.' They had left the resort in a hurry after being charged for internet which they had initially been told was free. Jo also showed us the slip stating breakfast was included in all tarriffs paid, for us to know as they weren't told about this, but enjoyed it anyway. We arrived at the resort which looked lovely and had beautiful gardens down to the lakeside. The restaurant area is built on stilts over the dam and is very beautifully done with wood and thatch. Unfortunately there was a bushfire on the ground nearby so the camping area was smoked out. We enjoyed a cold drink at the poolside, a swim costs GhC3.50 each, and the pool wasn't that great. We watched the very unfriendly Arnie (Arnold Schwartznegger) of donkeys eating the grass wherever he wanted to. He had very strange muscles which bulged out of his back and sides. We opened up the tent and eventually were given the keys to the room we could shower and use the loo in. The room was lovely, with a kente cloth bed spread, TV and aircon! We had a quick dinner before going to the room to 'shower'.

Kenneth had told us you could get WIFI from this room so we managed to V E R Y S L O W L Y upload more photos and enjoyed a shower with two cute tree frogs in the bathroom. We heard that Sir Edmund Hillary had passed away and was to be given a state funeral in New Zealand. A true explorer.

It was hot and still smoky, but we were both tired so it didn't take long to fall asleep to the sound of frogs and insects all around us.

Sunday 13th January 2008: Afrikiko River Front Resort, Akosombo, Ghana

GPS Info: N06° 16' 07.3" E00° 04' 35.8"

Miles Today: 142 Total Miles: 10 020

We sat down and enjoyed a nice breakfast of fresh pineapple slices, fried eggs, and pancakes. After we had finished we were approached by a very polite man, who doesn't even work for the resort, asking us to pay GhC5.00 each for breakfast! What a rip off! We fought this as the lady who checked us in last night told us a buffet breakfast was included in our camping fee, and the slip of paper clearly stated 'All tarriffs include a buffet breakfast'. While we were packing up the tent, the same very apologetic man came over on the cool managers behalf to ask us again to pay for breakfast! It seems to be what this place does, no wonder the others had left in a hurry. Luckily we had paid our GhC5.00 for camping last night so freshened up and organised our speedy exit too. Heids went to hand in the room key while Ross started the car and picked Heids up before racing out of the gate waving at the bewildered gardener who was waving to make us stop. Good riddance to those sharks!

We paid the toll to cross the beautiful metal bridge (Atimpoku Bridge) towards Wli (Vlee), leaving the sharks behind us. We drove on to Hohoe getting to Wli about midday. We paid our entry fee (GhC6.50 each plus 50p camera fee) and set off on the walk to the falls. We used the excuse we were only going to have a quick look so definitely didn't need a guide. The paths and bridges are so clear a guide is totally unnecessary. There were so many different beautiful butterflies flying around and even green bodied, black winged dragonfly looking insects. On our walk we came across our first live African snake. Heids squeeked and ran backwards while Ross stepped over it oblivious. It was bright

green and wriggled away very quickly leaving Heids having to walk past where it had slithered from. The walk through the forest to the falls was rather hot and humid, but when we got to the falls it was a sight worth the short trip. There was a lot of spray coming off the 30m cascade drop which was so cool and refreshing. Cleverly there are even some men selling cold drinks as you get to the base of the waterfall. There were thousands of bats hanging and flying from the one entire side of the cliff face. You can swim in the waterfall pool, which is freezing, but we didn't.

We took a few photo's before heading back to cross out of Ghana and into Togo at Wli. The mountains around the Wli area form the border between Togo and Ghana.

We tried to use some of the wasted money on the mobile phone to phone our parents. Heidi's parents had just come back from a wonderful weekend climbing up the chain ladder in the berg with a whole bunch of friends. Ross's parents were not at home, so we'll try again in Togo, hopefully the phone will still work there.

We crossed over the Ghanaian border at Wli after much fuss. We had entered Ghana on our EU passports and so needed to leave Ghana on them too. We were going to enter into Togo and Benin on our South African passports, as we don't need visas for these, and to make the rest of our trip all in our green passports. The Immigration Officer was quite on the ball and quizzed us thoroughly. It's not illegal to travel on two passports, but is always difficult when you swop from using one to the other. We bought a cold Coke from the Customs Officer, who runs a 'shop' at the border gate. He was quick to stamp our carnet and waved us out of Ghana.