gabon

Gabon

Thursday 31st January 2008:

There is a new fancy bridge joining Cameroon to Gabon which is brightly lit and so we sailed on over towards our twelth African country. Here we were also told the border was closed, but that we could camp here until it opened in the morning. Perfect as this was our plan anyway, as it was quite dark. The officials were all settled in their chairs outside the building, arranged around the TV watching the football, Tunisia vs Angola. It was hot and we were tired so made a very easy cuppa-soup and bread dinner, thanks to our Christmas presents. We then asked if we could join them to watch the Bafana Bafana match, which they said was going to be afterwards. Tunisia vs Angola drew sending Tunisia through, and then channels were switched to see the last few very disappointing minutes of the Bafana Bafana vs Senegal game which Bafana Bafana drew, meaning they are now out of The Africa Cup of Nations.

It was hot and humid still and there was a LOUD generator running closeby which we hoped they'd switch off later in the night. The stars were out and there were lots of fire-flies flying around confusing us with their flashing lights, which we thought were satelites. While we were watching the soccer / football, we heard two gun shots from the Cameroon side of the border bridge. So much for that side being 'safe' !!

Friday 1st February 2008 Gabonese Border, (near Nkolmeng-Boua), Gabon

GPS Info: N02° 17' 23.2" E11° 26' 48.5"

Miles Today: 254 Total Miles: 12 846

Nope. the generator ran all night and it didn't cool down, so we didn't get much sleep. Some big loud logging trucks came through at 6am, so we got up and had some breakfast, checked Duzi2 and then went to get our passports stamped. The border control offical, from last night's soccer, knew we didn't need a visa being South African's, quite a sharp guy. He told us we needed to go to Customs for the carnet, beyond the towers on the hill, and then onto Bitam, 27km further on, to Immigration to get our passports stamped with our 30day free entry. It was nice and cool getting going early, but the police stops were feeling fresh too, so we were stopped many times for no apparent reason at all. These stops had nasty looking wooden planks with nails sticking straight up out of them, so we definitely did stop.

The roads in Gabon were all beautifully tarred and painted with road markings, with people everywhere cutting the grass on each side, with pangas, weed-eaters and even grader-like trucks. Before we left the Gabonese border they had started to cut the lawn and paint one of the border buildings to smarten it up. Ross thought he overheard the border official saying something about a "General's visit", which would explain the neatening up. It was a very scenic drive with dense jungle growing on each side of the road, but we were hoping for a narrow, more jungly track similar to those we'd driven on in northen Cameroon. When we got to Bibas, we decided to try a bit of the 'yellow brick road' marked on the Michelin map which goes to Sam, and to then rejoin the tar again at Mitzic until we would turn off at Lalara to go to Lope National Park. We started off along this wide, recently graded logging-like road, but it was boring and had the jungle cleared so far away from the road. We decided to rather head back and drive on the main tar road straight down to Lalara, which was very beautiful. We stopped for a picnic lunch in the shade next to a big river, with large rapids all the way down. Ross was dreaming of shooting it in a plastic and we wondered if anyone had paddled this river as it's long and looks like fun. There were many little annoying fly things which loved flying around our heads! We also were spoilt with some beautiful butterflies which seemed to love landing on us, maybe enjoying the salt from our sweat.

At Lalara we branched onto a sandy road and met our first speedy, mad, logging-truck convoy. Luckily they do have white bakkies (pick-up trucks) driving ahead to warn you, but they are so far ahead, and don't tell you how many to look out for. The trucks are huge, loaded heavily with enormous logs and drive horrendously fast, spraying up lots of dust that blinds you. The camber of the road slopes the wrong way, sloping down from the middle, which means it's easy to slide into the ditches on the sides of the road. This meant Ross needed to drive extra cautiously in case we met a screaming truck around a blind, narrow corner. It was a very beautiful stretch passing many little forested dams.

On we went in the heat of the day until at last we reached the Equator, crossing from the Northern Hemisphere to the Southern Hemisphere at 0° North/South, just after the town of BissouBissalam. We got out of Duzi2 at the exact spot shown on our GPS to be the equator and toasted the moment with yummy Amarula Cream liquor, and took a few photies of this memorable first crossing. We even got the funnel out of the back cupboard to do the water experiment, which we both remember learning about at school. In the Northern Hemisphere water swirls one way when it drains out of a plughole, in the Southern Hemisphere it swirls the other way, but on the Equator it is supposed to drain straight down without swirling either way. It did just that. Caron, maybe this is an experiment you could do with your class and let us know what the results are.

We drove on meandering our way through the forests until we eventually reached Booue. Here we pulled over to check which way we should go to Lope, as there are many unmarked logging roads so it's very confusing. We stopped and asked a very friendly English speaking man, who turned out to be a minister in Booue. He offered to drive us to the ferry so we wouldn't get lost. The map doesn't make it obvious that there is a ferry to cross, at all! The ferry is provided by the government, so is free. Thank goodness we were following Father John and Emmanuel because we wouldn't have found our way to the ferry. We were blown away by the size of the Ogooue River we had to cross. We firstly drove past it's wide raging rapids and then along it's side. It was so wide and flowing very fast. Both of us silently praying that the ferry would be strong, safe, metal and diesel filled. Along the road we passed a man pointing to his watch and mobile phone, shaking his head. 6pm it's closed, but it was only 5.50pm, we still had 10 minutes! Father John miraculously sorted all this out for us and told us to reverse Duzi2 onto a very secure, metal ferry. Within a few minutes we were on our way over the huge Ogooue River as the sun set. We reached the other side and drove Duzi2 off, waving good-bye to Father John, both gob-smacked at what had just happened. God again amazingly providing for us and protecting us. Father John had warned us to drive carefully through this section of the jungle, on the road to Lope as we might come across elephants and gorillas in our forest / jungle drive. Wow, that would be a dream come true!

The road was very narrow, dark and surrounded by dense jungle. We decided to pull over and bush camp as it would be very dark, difficult and unsafe to drive on through the night. We pulled off onto an old road where a previous bridge had existed, but it had subsequently been washed away leaving a big hole. Ross did a quick inspection of the place before we opened out the tent. After seeing the new bridge was made out of rocks with soil packed on top, Ross said if it started raining we were to move asap as this bridge would also wash away, and we'd be stuck. As we drove in Heidz was stung/bitten by a tiny flea sized creature which left a fire burning sensation. The light disappeared very quickly leaving us surrounded by pitch black, loud, jungle buzzing sounds and creatures. There were creeping thorny tendrils of bushes growing everywhere. It was so humid and deafeningly loud. We made a 'quick' ready-made pasta-in-a-bag meal and ate quickly before escaping into the tent to be bug free.

It was so dark inside the tent that we couldn't actually tell whether the side flaps of the tent were open or not.

Saturday 2nd February 2008: Jungle Camp in the heart of the rain forest, Booue (Lope side), Gabon

GPS Info: S00° 08' 43.9" E11° 55' 49.2"

Miles Today: 41 Total Miles: 12 887

HAPPY BIRTHDAY PAPS!!! We hope you have a fantastic birthday and can do all you want to, seeing as it is a Saturday. We said a special prayer for you this morning and have been thinking of you all day. We can't wait to see you in a few weeks time in Namibia.

We woke up to the sound of drops, but realised these were not raindrops but rather lots of condensation on the tent. Little wonder it's called a rain-forest. Everything was wet, rather than damp. We packed up and headed along the breath-takingly stunning jungle drive, which wound its way through the hills and valleys of the forest. We crossed more rather precarious looking bridges, some made of a few bits of wood balancing over logs. There were even a few muddy bits, which made us think of Jake, the American we'd met who was desperate to come to Gabon. Duzi2 handled everything like a dream and took it all in her/his stride. We caught a fleeting glimpse of a very quick, little black tree squirrel with a very puffy tail, which scurried across the track in front of Duzi2 and up into the tree on the side, vanishing into the dense jungle growth.

As we were driving through the jungle we both felt so small because the trees were so huge and tall. At many stages we couldn't see the bottom of the valley, where the trees started, and were looking at their middles with their tops reaching really high above us. Truly enormous! We did unfortunately see evidence of logging along some of the forest roads, where logging trucks had obviously lost their loads around corners. We meandered around for hours not passing a single human, vehicle or village. We felt like we were all alone in this jungle paradise. Heidz caught a fleeting glimpse of a mandrill monkey on a rock hiding in the shade of trees, not too far from the road. She saw a monkey/baboon shape with a blue face staring straight at us, but by the time we reversed back for Ross to see, it was gone, sadly.

We continued to pick our way through the forest tracks using our GPS and eventually chose the correct 'road', coming out at a town called Kazamabika. Wow! We had left the dense jungle behind us and were now in green grassy savannah lands. We drove on through Lope National Park entering the town of Lope from the back. It is a tiny town with a shop, bar and nightclub. We asked around for the Lope Reserve office and eventually passed the Lope Hotel on our way to the Park Wardens home. He said it was fine for us to camp, CFA5 000 a night. He showed us to a nice grassy lawn under a shady tree to camp, next to a block of roomed accommodation. He then showed us the communal kitchen and bathroom, with a clean loo, shower and basin. We met Yoel, an Israeli travelling through Africa in a Jeep. He's taken 2 1/2yrs so far, but keeps returning to the US to visit his children. We also met Giles, a Canadian from Quebec, who's in Gabon for a month with his son Cedrik, who's passionately researching African tarantula spiders.

We have since heard from Cedric that upon returning back to the bungalow at the end of his day, he felt something behind his ear and flicked it off, only to find that it was a baby Tarantula which quickly scurried away and hasn't been found since.

Boy was it hot! We decided to walk into the 'city' as they call it, to find some bread for lunch. We were totally soaked by the time we arrived at the shop, about a 10minute walk away. It was midday, "mad dogs and Englishmen (and Ross and Heidi) out in the midday sun", you know... We gulped down a dreamy cold Coke and bought some stale chocolate biscuits, Pringles and pasta for a pasta salad. This very basic little shop seemed pretty pricey, with many things past, or close to, their expiry date, and it didn't have bread, so we walked a few minutes on to the next tiny village and found some bread, monkey nuts, onions and eggs in it's tiny little shop. We got so burnt on this little walk, which just shows how strong the sun is at the equator.

When we got back we both just flopped about totally sapped of energy. Cedrik, Giles' son returned and fascinated us by his incredible passion and knowledge of African tarantulas. He has been out researching every day for the past 3 weeks and has discovered 2 new tarantula species! He's only 21, but is a well known name in the scientific field. Yoel, Giles, Cedrik and ourselves had each been told different prices to go into the Lope National Park. We were told it would cost us CFA35 000 for the day, and the guide was obligatory, nearly double what the others had been charged. This is supposed to be MUCH cheaper than The Lope Hotel charges. We'd hate to know what that would be! Both Yoel and Giles didn't recommend we go in as they had seen nothing on one walk and very little on a three hour drive. This made up our minds for us, as we were shocked by how expensive it was. It equated to the same price as one 30-day visa for Gabon.

We showered to cool off, and did some washing. The mozzies were very bad and didn't seem to be put off by Peaceful Sleep or Tabard! We made a huge pasta salad for an early dinner and enjoyed a delicious shandy, toasting to your birthday Paps. We ate and climbed into bed with a mozzie coil burning. It was still quite hot, but seemed to cool down later. We were listening out in the hope we'd hear buffalo outside, but no such luck. At least in the tent we are safe from insects and more bites!

Sunday 3rd February 2008: Lope National Park, Lope, Gabon

GPS Info: S00° 06' 44.3" E11° 36' 04.4"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 12 887

The wind picked up through the night making it a very disturbed night's sleep. It did cool down with a strong wind blowing, which was great. Ross's washing had been blown onto the ground and the tent poles sounded like they were about to fly out with every big gust of wind. We got up early and were amazed to see the sun all hazy. This can't be the effects of the Harmattan down here too! Heidz had a cool off shower while Ross went to investigate the supposed WIFI access 50metres away at the Nature Conservation Centre. The WIFI had been switched off, so no internet unfortunately.Yoel had told us yesterday we were wasting our time going into Libreville to get an Angolan visa as he said there's no Angolan embassy there. He's going to cross into the Congo via Franceville to Brazzaville and then on to Angola via Matadi, rather than going from Pointe Noire into Cabinda, as Cabinda seem to be causing the problems with access to Angola down the coast route. He is planning on getting his Angolan visa in Brazzaville rather than Libreville. This has got us thinking...

We read up about Rob and Ally's route (Long Roadtrip South) via Pointe Noire, but they were lucky enough to have got a double entry 30-day Angolan visa in Abuja this time last year, before all this Cabinda malarky started. Martin and Debbie (Big Sky Adventures) had done the Franceville route 3yrs ago, so we'll have to try and download their info when we next get to an internet cafe. We weren't sure which exact route Tim and Ciara, and Justin and Becky had gone, but knew they also ended up in Brazzaville, and this was why we weren't too keen to go there. We'll need to keep on reading, but have decided we will still drive to Libreville to try for our multiple entry Angolan visas there, at least then we'll know for ourselves. Every overlander ahead of us seems to be heading to Libreville too, so we may even be lucky enough to meet up with some of them there. We also want to go to the SA High Commission in Libreville, and will then need to decide from there. We are going to try and slow down a little bit as we are both exhausted from the long hot drives everyday with temperatures in the high 40's (deg C). We might even spend a bit of time at Cap Esterias, about 40kms further north of Libreville. If we can get our visas in Libreville then we'd like to try and go to the Parcs National de Loango (where there are supposedly surfing hippos) and Mayumba (where we might be able to see breaching whales in the sea and turtles on the beaches). These are both on the coast further south in Gabon. This would be before heading out into Congo and onto Point Noire in the DRC.

We decided to stay on another day at Lope, as it's really beautiful and seems to be a bit more cloudy, so will probably be cooler. With us staying on, we can repair our back right tyre, which picked up a big screw in Cameroon causing a very slow leak, and try again to find the source of where the rattle and new squeaks are coming from in the back. Ross pretty much pulled every part of the wheel mounting apart to check and tighten things. He worked so hard all day in the sweltering heat, as the day progressively got hotter. He replaced the outer wheel bearing and re-greased all the mountings in the back right wheel and replaced the brake pads with new ones, while Heidz caught up on diary entries and started our campsite info page, while being eaten by more mozzies! She also managed to spot some lizards standing next to a long row of ants, munching as though they were at a sushi conveyor belt. Heidz was so close she could even hear them chewing as they picked up the ants with their tongues just like chameleons.

As night fell, we were attacked by more mozzies, which LOVE your feet! We both showered and then covered up, socks are a great barrier. We walked into the 'city' of Lope and bought a mobile sim for CFA3000 and very quickly phoned Paps, but the money just flew by only giving us about a 3minute broken up call. It sounded like he'd had a lovely day today celebrating his birthday with lots of family and friends. We made a tuna, tomato and rice dinner, using one of our magic Shoprite South African tomato, onion and mushroom tinned mix. Once when Ross went into the kitchen to check on the rice boiling on the stove, he opened the door and switched on the light, to be met by about 13 massive cockroaches running in all directions. While chasing the one cockroach away from climbing up his trouser leg his foot scooped a stray frog from underneath the sink cupboard, which then seemed to disappear into nowhere with the rest of the insects. Never a dull moment in Africa.

It was so hot and humid, we definitely could feel we were on the equator. You hardly do anything and you are totally wet from sweat.Even if you have a cold shower, which is the only option thankfully, as you're drying yourself, you feel the persperation already starting to form. Hopefully we'll sleep well tonight, if it cools off a bit. Tomorrow we plan to drive to Libreville, and we've been told the road is bad, so it would be great to have a good nights sleep before we set off again.

We took a chance and ambled across in the dark by torch light to the Nature Conservation centre down the road, where we were lucky enough to find the WiFi now working perfectly with a very fast connection. We only had a brief chance to upload our Nigerian photos and check for emails. Thanks Daan for all that you are doing regarding the roof at Laburnum Court, and wonderful to hear the news about the construction of the Richmond Canoe Club balcony starting at last, Alison.). We were then told that the generator for those buildings would be switched off in a few minutes (at 10:30pm) and as we left to walk back to Duzi2, the whole area became pitch black. We walked back by torch light but saw no buffalo.

As it is too hot to sleep, our Canadian neighbours were still awake, and we spent a few minutes chatting to them while being dive bombed by some noisy UBFC's (unidentified big flying creatures).

Monday 4th February 2008: Lope National Park, Lope, Gabon

GPS Info: S00° 06' 44.3" E11° 36' 04.4"

Miles Today: 46 Total Miles: 12 933

We woke up early to another humid morning. We walked over to the Nature Conservation Centre and yay their wireless was on! We uploaded our Benin and Cameroon photos and did some research about the Angolan visa situation, but couldn't really find too much. The connection was fairly quick and didn't bomb out during uploading, making for a nice change.

After hours of internet, we left Lope, Gilles and Cedric and started on the horribly bumpy and hole-filled dirt road towards Libreville. We pulled over and surveyed a few potential bush camping spots before choosing one down an old, abandoned road, which overlooked the huge Ogooue River and was so peaceful. We watched many storms flashing all around us and wondered when and if they'd make their way over to us. We made a quick dinner and settled into the tent to watch a movie, Man Trouble, which Yoel had given us. It was quite a funny, romantic movie with Jack Nicholson, a dog-trainer, and Ellen Barkin, a damsel who needs a dog to protect her from someone who's out to get her. Basically, the story revolved around the two of them, it was very different seeing Jack Nicholson playing a more gentle, likeable role for a change. It just shows how far we've come on our trip with us now being perfectly comfortable bush camping in the middle of nowhere and watching a movie in the tent, compared with our first nights trying to sleep inside Duzi2. It was still very hot and sticky when we eventually fell asleep.

Happy birthday Brad. We hope you were spoilt by AM, Josh and Caroline on your special day!

Tuesday 5th February 2008: Bush camp 39km from Alembe, Gabon

GPS Info: S00° 03' 46.8" E11° 09' 59.6"

Miles Today: 200 Total Miles: 13 133

It rained during the night, but the tent was dry by the time we packed up and the ground hardly had any evidence of rain. After breakfast we set off on the horrible road again, this time with a few more squeaks than before...We passed logging trucks carrying huge logs out of the forest, and spraying up so much dust that you are temporarily dust blinded. We also passed other logging trucks going back into the forest, carrying the extension piece that fits onto the back of the truck. These pieces adjust depending on the length of the logs the trucks carry. The trucks are so strong, and are driven so fast.

Ndjole was a big logging hub, and we were shocked when we saw how many huge logs were at one of the logging stations. At this rate there wont be many big trees left in a few years time! We eventually reached the badly disintegrated tar sections leading into Libreville. You'd think that the roads leading into such a rich, modern city would at least be fairly driveable, not having huge holes taking up one whole side of the road! They were doing roadworks on some stretches of the road improving washed away bridges etc, so maybe in a few months this road wont be so atrocious.

We arrived in Libreville from the only road leading in and out of the city. The city stretches along the sea with the main city road travelling right along the waters edge. Parts of the city are very glitsy, but parts are very ramshackled and falling down. There are a few high rise buildings and everyone drives a big 4x4, Hummer or a flash sports car. Not too sure how many of the sports cars travel outside of Libreville as they would break apart in some of the pot holes with their low suspension and clearance. The purple and white taxis are as cheeky as anywhere, and some are just holding together making worse sounds than us, which is really saying something at the moment.

We went in search of the SA Embassy and were met and welcomed in by an extremely helpful lady, Anneke. She thought we were both mad for doing our trip and the route down the west. She was very involved with evacuating SA citizens out of Chad and into Libreville before flying them on to SA, but she still had time for us. She even phoned Linda, at the SA Embassy in Brazzaville, to find out where he suggest we try for our Angolan visas. Koen Van Wyk, the man in the SA Embassy in Brazzaville with all the knowledge and a name Piet Bester in Accra had given us, had also just recently left, in December, to drive his 4x4 home to SA. This was new news that shocked Anneke, to think that "normal" people also did this sort of thing. Koen had gone down via Point Noire, but being based at Brazzaville he probably secured his diplomatic Angolan visa there before he left, making Point Noire a viable option for him. Anneke had also met Kingsley Holgate and 'the surfers' who came through here towards the end of last year. She told us The Atlantic Hotel, where they had all camped and where we had a GPS way-point for, had been demolished, so wasn't an option to camp at anymore. After much very helpful info and a wonderfully detailed map of recommended places to go to shop at, etc. from Anneke, we left the SA embassy and went across the road to draw money from the ATM. We were drawn into a very cute, delicious smelling, boulangerie/pattiserie, recommended in The Lonely Planet Africa guide. We treated ourselves to some chocolate muffins, these were highly recommended by a local also buying in the bakery. They were very delicious! We also bought some fresh bagettes and then went in search of the Angolan embassy.

The embassy was closed, which we had expected, so we were told to come back tomorrow between 8.00 and 9.00am. The man at the gate seemed positive when he heard we were South Africans and said we should get a visa tomorrow. Hope this is true.

We then went on, following waypoints in search of a place to camp for the night. We found the Catholic Mission Beatitude, behind the big main church on the hill along the main city road in Libreville. We were met by two very gentle, smiley and friendly ladies, Anastassi and Sarah. They said it would be no problem for us to camp and offered us something to drink before showing us to a waiting room, while a room was prepared for us to use the loo and shower in. We were brought a tray with cold, delicious cordial, some mini-Pringles and a bowl of sweets. Wow! We were blown away by their hospitality and kindness. The Beatitude Mission was so peaceful and tranquil in a city that is so busy and noisy.

We showered and cooled off before we went off to Tivoli's for a huge, cheesy and much dreamt of pizza, which Anneke had recommended we go to earlier on in the day. So worth it. We ended up taking some home for breakfast tomorrow, making a change from the oaty, 'horse food' muesli we currently have. While we were enjoying our pizzas, we heard the sound of sirens, something we haven't heard for ages and certainly don't miss the sound of. Back to the Mission for a very hot and sticky night's sleep. We folded the fly-sheet flaps right up to allow as much air flow as possible in, which was so little, if any at all.

Wednesday 6th February 2008: Catholic Mission Beatitude, Libreville, Gabon

GPS Info: N00° 24' 12.5" E09° 26' 19.9"

Miles Today: 15 Total Miles: 13 148

Woken up to the sound of bells chiming at 5.50am followed by amazingly beautiful singing coming from the mission's church hall, next door to us. The singing was so clear and relaxing. A very gentle way to wake up. We showered again before getting into our 'smart' embassy clothes ready to face the Angolan embassy. We arrived at the gate only to be told that the embassy is only open to Angolan citizens on Wednesdays, we should come back tomorrow!!! It was now getting hotter by the second so we did a quick change and stopped off at an internet cafe to sheck emails and try to make contact with other overlanders we know of, to see which route they're opting for - Franceville to Brazzaville to Matadi, or Point Noire to Cabinda to Matadi. The internet cafe was wonderfully air-conditioned and so we took shelter there for 3 hours. We again read more gripes from our impossible-to-please tenants, who we're seriously considering taking the 6 month break-out clause of our lease with. You'd think our flat was a total dump and had never been lived in with their ridiculously aggressive demands! They seem to be giving Julia, our managing agent, a lot of trouble and seem to be more trouble than they're worth, completely lacking any sense of appreciation for anything that is done for them! Not something we expected to have to concern ourselves with at this stage of the trip. We also received an email from Nic and Robin, www.capeoverland.com, telling us they'd had no luck in getting their Angolan visa in Libreville and had waited 5 days. They even had a letter from the Angolan Ambassador in London, which made NO difference. They are going to try for a transit visa in Matadi and will let us know what the fine is when they enter into Namibia.

Some transit visas are being issued apparently, if you are lucky, but being only for 3 or 5 days doesn't help much more than letting you into the country, as Angola is too big with bad roads, to be able to travel through in that time. People are therefore just considering getting into the country with the transit visa, and then paying whatever the fine is at the other end for overstaying the time allocated.

Nic and Robin were in Brazzaville and had taken 4 days to get from Libreville to Brazzaville, travelling alone. They told us of places they'd camped at and about the road conditions ahead. We really appreciate their response, which confirmed the way we both feel is right to go from Libreville.

We drove back to the Mission, which was totally full of cars, so decided to drive around and come back a little later, when we could at least drive in. We went into the big, red and white, Mbolo supermarket, which was also air-conned and we spent ages wandering around. We bought a few things, but it was VERY expensive. Everything in the shops is from France, with European equivalent prices, no wonder it's all so expensive. From Mbolo, we went into the blue and green Geant CKdo, another air-conned supermarket, to look around and keep cool. Their prices seemed slightly cheaper, but were still very expensive. Are you noticing the air-conned trend? What a luxury to at least be able to escape the heat for a bit in a shop. We bought some baguettes and a big tub of strawberry yoghurt for lunch, which went down very well.

We've also had a problem with our Celtel mobile sim which just stopped working after Lope, and hasn't had a signal since. We asked around about it and were directed to the Celtel Head Quarters for Gabon. They quickly and efficiently rechipped our sim and re-imbursed us with CFA1000 credit, which we added to. How lucky that this happened in Libreville, where we could get it sorted out in a few minutes.

We drove back to the Mission and asked Sarah and Sister Anastassi if we could stay another night, which they were fine about. We had tried to find Maison Liebermann earlier, to see if any other overlanders were in Libreville, but couldn't find it, even with the waypoint! We would highly recommend Mission Beatitude as it's so beautiful and everyone is so friendly and welcoming. They had chopped down all the branches from the trees in the carpark, which we hoped would allow more air-flow into the tent, and hopefully a cooler night's sleep. We had bought some mince so made a yummy spaghetti bolognaise for dinner, with real mince!

Today was Ash Wednesday, so many of the Mission people had an ash cross marked on their foreheads. We were also invited to join them for a special Mass in the main big church, but we didn't. Wow, it's amazing how fast this year is going already.

Thursday 7th February 2008: Catholic Mission Beatitude, Libreville, Gabon

GPS Info: N00° 24' 12.5" E09° 26' 19.9"

Miles Today: 27 Total Miles: 13 175

Woke up again to the sound of 5.50am bells chiming and the harmonious singing of the Mission. It had poured during the night so everything was wet. We packed up and got dressed into our embassy clothes again to try once more at the Angolan embassy. We received two wonderful phone calls from our parents before we left, which were so lovely. The Angolan visa saga is a general problem with whoever applies, tourist or business, SA nationals or any other. We said our good-bye's and thank you's to all the wonderful people at the Mission. On hearing our Angola visa problems, Sister Anastassi promptly phoned the Angolan Ambassador's wife, a friend of hers, to get the Ambassador's number to find out what the problem is. She asked us to wait which we both did, gobsmacked that she was so casual about calling him. After a call back from his wife, she told us he was travelling, so couldn't help us.

We arrived at the embassy being welcomed in by the gate man from yesterday. He showed us to reception, only to be told "the machine which makes the visa sticker, she is broke", and has been for 3 or 4 months. He didn't know if or when it would be fixed!!! Aargh! We got this story, which we suspect was a lie, after Heidz saw a pile of what looked like completed visa application forms lying on his desk hidden behind his computer. We weren't expecting a visa, but Heidz was secretly praying this whole thing would be over and we would miraculously get one and avoid having to drive all the way out to Brazzaville. So we'll be heading to Brazzaville and Kinshasa via Franceville and skipping Point Noire and avoiding Cabinda completely, a totally different visa issue!

We went back to the Mission and refilled our water tank and a spare jerry, using our amazing Brownchurch filter which is fantastic and so worth its £s. Said final good-byes and drove past the airport and onto Cap Esterias. The tar ends and the horribly bumpy dirt road starts for about 30kms. The pot holes were full of water due to last night's rainstorm so Duzi2 got a bit muddy. They are grading and improving this road, so fairly soon this should also be good, which will make it a far more popular place to come to from Libreville. We drove past the recommended fresh vegetable selling lady, who sells on the side of the road under a colourful umbrella, and arrived at Auberge Du Maree, only to find the gate locked shut. After hooting and getting no response, we thought we'd walk around to the front and come in off the beach. The tide was in high and there was no beach, so we walked through a side gate. We knocked on the door and were met by a French speaking man who told us they were closed. Oops, where to from here? Then he understood that we were tourists and wanted to camp, which made him happily welcome us in. We parked Duzi2 on the beautiful green lawn and were shown the loo and shower we could use, in a room nearby. He told us they have lots of overlanders staying and had 2 cars last week, a red Landy - Nic and Robin, and another car. The owner Francoise, a lady, wasn't here but would be back later.

He showed us to the restuarant area which overlooks the beach and sea, and told us to relax. The view was amazing and we both couldn't believe our luck. This was the perfect spot to stop and stay at until Monday, when we plan to go via the SA embassy and inform them of our movements and then head down to Lamberene, before setting off to Franceville. We took it that the restaurant is only open on weekends, so we had the whole place to ourselves to relax and enjoy. We took out the magazines and sat enjoying the cool onshore breeze, overlooking the sea. We watched some fishermen going out for their nights fishing and others coming in. We got used to the crashing thuds of falling fruits crashing down hard on the flat tin roof. The sun set and it got dark. It was such a treat to just stop.

Eventually we got up, showered and covered up to stop the mozzi attacks. We made a quick scrambled egg mixed with left over spaghetti bolognaise and sat chatting for hours as the temperature seemed to cool down. We're thrashing ideas out of what we should dump and pack to send home to make space for Heidz's parents who are joining us in Namibia to travel in Duzi2, in a few weeks time. We can't wait for this! We still have many things we've never used and won't because they are good in theory and don't work in practise, our washing machine, or use too much water, our showers, or we haven't used at all yet, our Canon Selphy photo printer, etc.

We fell asleep to the sound of the generator running in the one corner of the garden. It was still very humid in the tent.

Happy birthday Xico. We hope you had a wonderful day and were treated on your special day.

Happy birthday Em. Hope Ant and your little baby boy gave you a wonderful day of rest spoiling you on your special day.

Friday 8th February 2008: Auberge La Maree, Cap Esterias, Gabon

GPS Info: N00° 37' 05.9" E09° 19' 24.3"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 13 175

We both enjoyed a bit of a lie in. So strange to have nothing to do or no reason to get up early for. It got hot very quickly and we took shelter in Duzi2's shade for a bit before the mozzies drove us mad.It was cloudy and quite muggy, almost lookin glike it would rain at any moment, but it didn't. We could hear a woodpecker pecking in one of the trees nearby. We went around to the restaurant and saw the tide was right out exposing a beach and a rocky shelf. We walked along the beach and over the rocks seeing a lot of life in the small rock pools. There were lots of whole pink sea urchin shells along the beach. It was so hot so we decided to rather sit in the shade of the restuarant and catch up on diary updates and do some reading of the books we've been carrying all this time, but haven't read yet.

We met Francoise, who is originally from Bordeaux in France and has been living at Cap Esterias in Gabon for 13 years. She is a lively, lovely lady who has a long list of overlander's websites who have stayed on her lawn. She said we could stay as long as we wanted, but warned us the lawn gets full over weekends. The restaurant must be really good and get really busy because there are lots of tables in the restaurant. We might have to try it, if it's not too expensive, especially as camping here is free, it's the least we can do. She also showed us a braai (bbq) we can use, with charcoal, for a fish braai, but we won't be be doing that. We'd have loved to have had a real braai if we had some meat, but that is a luxury we don't have. Francoise is so lovely and even though she's French and Spanish speaking, we managed to communicate really well. She LOVES overlanders and wants to become one oneday too. She enjoyed flipping through our magazines and chatting generally. She has a new Apple Iphone, which is amazing and has everything - phone, internet, ipod, camera, gps etc, with a huge price tag to go with it. Very nice and so easy to use.

We spent time reading and relaxing enjoying the view, which is totally ours alone today. All of a sudden we heard a wave crashing far out and the tide started to come in. There is no moon at the moment so the tides are at their highest high and lowest low. The fruits continued to crash onto the tin restaurant roof together with the scratching scuttles of the 'push up' lizards which are prolific here too. We watched big flocks of seagulls herding schools of fish from the deeper sea waters towards to rock reef, before they dive bombed them and fed frantically. The Luger binoculars Mark gave us, are fantastic for this.

Ross brought down one of the wolf boxes with the many travel games we've been carrying with us, but have never even unpacked let alone played. We had many Connect 4 challenges, with Ross doing best at a 10second Connect 4 game. We also played Battle Ships and then made a couscous dinner before the heavens openned to an almighty storm with pouring rain. We sheltered in the room until it was over and then watched Flushed Away in the tent. We had started watching Flushed Away in the Gabonese embassy the day we spent all day waiting for our confirmation letter. The movie is so clever and cute. Slowly we're making our way through the NAO Odeon movie selection. Thanks guys, the selection is great!

Saturday 9th February 2008: Auberge La Maree, Cap Esterias, Gabon

GPS Info: N00° 37' 05.9" E09° 19' 24.3"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 13 175

Woke up to the tapping of the woodpecker in the distance. Today was bright and sunny, and again hot. We went to enjoy the stunning views over the sea watching the tide go out. Ross enjoyed his morning cup of coffee staring out to sea. We had breakfast and did washing. Many people arrived at the restaurant, one couple even bringing a picnic basket and blanket to picnic on the beach. The woodpecker was hard at work tapping all day, while the now familiar loud bangs of the falling fruits and baby coconuts could be heard crashing down on to the tin roofs, more so today than before, maybe because of the heat. We tried to get a glimpse of Mr Woodpecker through the binos, but as we went closer he stopped tapping.

It was another hot day on the seaside. We spent the day relaxing in the shade of the palm trees overlooking the sea, writing up our 'Places Where We Camped' page and reading the books we've brought along with us. We had a lovely long phone call with Heidz' parents trying to make arangements for Namibia in a few weeks time. We can't wait!

The restaurant, where we are staying, was open today and had a steady stream of people coming, eating and leaving. We were told to still make ourselves at home any where and not feel we can't just enjoy the place. We gave our washing over to Fatu, the lovely, friendly lady who works here. We noticed we had a coconut placed under Duzi2 this morning, it must have been thanks to her. We eventually decided to go for an explore of the village nearby and in search of some bread to eat. It was about 4.45pm when we left and it was still boiling hot, with both of us feeling like we were getting burnt by the strong sun. We managed to find some bread and returned home to a late lunch / early dinner.

We showered and lay in the tent watching another NAO Odeon provided movie, 'Good-bye Bafana'. This was really good about the prison warden, James Gregory, who looked after Mandela when he was in prison on Robin Island and at Palsmore Prison, before his release. The warden got very close to Mandela during this time. It is a brilliant movie and something every South African should see. If only South Africa was run fairly and justly, according to parts of the Freedom Charter, but the leaders of today all seem a little to power hungry.

Seeing the movie and parts of Cape Town made us realise just how beautiful South Africa is. It made us think especially of you, Karl and Debbie as your big day approaches on the 4th of April.

Sunday 10th February 2008: Auberge La Maree, Cap Esterias, Gabon

GPS Info: N00° 37' 05.9" E09° 19' 24.3"

Miles Today: 0 Total Miles: 13 175

Woke up quite late this morning after the loud partying went on until the early hours of the morning across the road. It got hot quickly so we went to enjoy our horsefood, oaty muesli breakfast over-looking the sea. Wrote more info on our Camping page and enjoyed a delicious chicken lunch at the restaurant. It was quite an expensive treat for us, but we haven't spent anything on camping over the past few days. We were looking at the dessert menu, with desserts starting at CFA2 500 up to CFA4 000, when Francoise slipped two big slices of a typically French/Brittany dessert cake on our table, whipping away the menus. This was yummy and a baked custard type texture with dates. Very filling. She must have appreciated we were stretching out a bit and very subtly kept our bill low. She is such a sweetie. The restaurant was completely full today with every table taken and the lawn car park chock-a-block with big 4x4s of every kind!

Ross re-oiled the back and front diffs, re-greased the prop shafts and universal joints, even taking the universal joint off the back prop sharft, but it was moving perfectly fine, so this isn't the cause of the squeaks either. After many long, exhausing and hot hours in his over-all under Duzi2, he re-surfaced looking like a grease monster. John and Barry the gloves you gave us ages ago, are so great for all this car work. Ross closed the car up and went to shower only to come back and not be able to open the rear door, so we couldn't get to anything! This was the final straw for Heidz, who so wishes there was never any work to do on the car and that she could help do some of it. We tried to drive forwards, breaking sharply, over various different levels etc, but nothing worked. We must have looked like quite a comedy show to Francoise and Fatu, who were watching us through their various windows. Heidz holding onto the ladder running after Ross in Duzi2 then lurching off her feet crashing in to the back wheel as the brakes screached bringing Duzi2 to a halt. All this and it wouldn't open or even budge at all. We have been carrying an emergency roadside bag, which has been catching on the rear door latch every now and again, so we both knew it was this, but we had no way of getting inside to move it. Suddenly the handle lifted and it popped open. Yay! Time for the emergency roadside bag to go!

While Heidz had a shower and Ross researched on the laptop, the heavens openned to a huge storm, with thundering, lighting and flooding rain. We hadn't rolled the outside window flaps down and with the torrential rain the duvet cover, pillows and mattress were wet, not surprisingly. The lawn was now pools of water and the driveway a brown river. It was quite cool for a change and we went to sleep to the sound of rain. We hoped this wasn't the start of the rainy season...

Monday 11th February 2008: Auberge La Maree, Cap Esterias, Gabon

GPS Info: N00° 37' 05.9" E09° 19' 24.3"

Miles Today: 143 Total Miles: 13 318

Up to a bright, hot sunshine and everything in the tent was hung up to dry. We had a pancake breakfast and sadly left our spot of relaxation and the lovely Francoise and Fatu for Libreville. The bad road back to Libreville from Cap Esterias was very muddy and wet, so Ross and Duzi2 had fun. Duzi2 is all muddy again, even after Ross cleaned her/him in the storm last night. So great to be able to drive through anything with total confidence knowing you'll get through as graders are pulling out trucks that are stuck. We plan to do a quick upload of info on the web, go past the SA embassy to tell them of our planned route and then head down to Lambarene. Our wonderful Celtel sim seems to be playing up again, so we'll try and sort this out AGAIN too, while we're in Libreville.

Update updated...

We left Libreville fairly late after popping into the SA Embassy to say good-bye to Anneke and Grace. They had a look over Duzi2, but still think we are mad. On our way out, we heard a hoot and saw a hand frantically waving ahead of us. It was Francoise and her man. What a lovely way to leave, being able to say good-bye to everyone we've come to know here.

The road out of Libreville is very bad, it's a wonder how new, flash cars make it into Libreville, because most wouldn't survive the road into this flash, expensive town. They must be shipped in. The drive today took great concentration, due to all the huge holes, until the Bifoun circle (carrefour) where the road became wonderful tar down towards Lambarene. We eventually stopped, driving up a rather steep old track to bush camp in a cleared area. We knew locals had seen us drive past and could hear distant voices. Neither of us felt particularly great about our spot, but it was dark and too late to drive on to the mission in Lambarene. It's never great arriving at a bush camp in the dark, because you can't see what's around you or get orientated. We had a quick snack supper and climbed into bed. It was still humid, and we probably wouldn't have slept had we not both felt so whacked from the heat of the day.

Tuesday 12th February 2008: Bush camp near Adane, on the way to Lambarene, Gabon

GPS Info: S00° 26' 11.04" E10° 18' 34.2"

Miles Today: 178 Total Miles: 13 496

After a very unsettled night's sleep, with both of us hearing noises, we were up very early. A man in a white bath robe, walked past Duzi2 and counted his pile of wood pieces lying quite close to us, and then disappeared. While we were in the tent we noticed these little flea like flying insects that were easy to squash and were full of blood - our blood. We quickly realised these were the things Rob and Ally had written about that are invisble and fly around, and only when they've bitten you and are full of blood, do they become visible. They leave you with red spots, which become itchy over time. They are so tiny they get right through the mozzi netting. It got very hot very quickly, so we packed up, had breakfast and then noticed all our red spots developing all over our legs. Heidz had a strappy top on so was covered in red spots all over her back, arms and legs!

Some local ladies, carrying empty baskets on their backs, walked over the rise behind which we had camped and froze when they saw us. They needed to walk past us to get onto the path into the forest, to collect firewood and plantains. We greeted them and waved, which relaxed them, so they continued to walk past us on their way.

Driving down to Lambarene we arrived at the Albert Schweitzer Hospital and Museum. This hospital was founded initially to treat lepers in 1924 by Albert Schweitzer, a Noble Prize winner. His philosophy was based on a Christian philosophy to never turn away or refuse treatment and care of sick people or animals. The hospital is still a free hospital to this day. There are volunteer-staffed labs researching malaria and other tropical diseases, and we saw quite a few Swiss / German looking doctors in the grounds of the hospital. We both thought it quite funny that we were going here on a day when we both looked like we had serious cases of measles. There were a pelican and a bush-buck in a fenced off area, which seemed to be being treated at the moment too. We spent time looking and reading the gravestones of some of the brave founder hospital workers and staff. It is hard to imagine how it must have been in Lambarene in the early 1900s. Albert Schweitzer came out to Lambarene in 1914 and his wife, Helen, around that time too. Lambarene is on the map because of the hospital. We visited the museum which has their two bedrooms on display, as they would have been then, with old original hospital artefacts and photos. The photos were really interesting. People would arrive at the hospital by pirogue. There is now a newly built, well equipped school on the way to the museum, where lessons were on the go, with children in uniforms. It was SO hot that we had to stop off for an early lunch of fresh baguettes and cold Coke at the little shop in the hospital grounds. We then drove in to Lambarene itself, which is situated on the banks of the beautiful Oguooe River. There wasn't much to see in the rest of the town so we turned and headed all the way back up north, to drive around Lope towards Franceville.

We bumped and jumped our way onto the even more bumpy sand track towards Ndjole and Lope. We passed many speedy, loaded Chinese-driven logging trucks as we meandered our way twisting and turning along the rather narrow and overgrown road through the jungle, following the huge, wide Ogooue River once again. The jungle creepers seem to be rapidly reclaiming the land that is now the road. On one of the twisting corners of road, we met another overlanding German couple in a big yellow and white truck. They were making their way to Libreville. We swopped info about what we knew about the Angolan visa saga and wished each other well. They have been travelling for 17months so far, leaving from Germany and are planning on going all the way around Africa, but clearly on a very different timescale and budget to ours.

We both really enjoyed the views today. The Ogooue River is amazing and so powerful. We'd love to organise a paddling expedition down it as it would be lovely with spectacular views and pretty exciting rapids.

Just before sunset we pulled off the road, driving down onto a grassy hilltop well hidden from the road, but the perfect place for a lodge. We had the most spectacular views of the grassy lands all around us. We saw some wild monkeys climbing across the tree-tops just before turning off the road. Our first live monkey troop in Gabon, as up until now we've only seen these kind of monkeys hanging off sticks on the side of the road, being sold as bush meat. There were some monkeys chatting to each other in the trees below and around our hilltop bushcamp. We heard another flock of African Greys flying overhead going through the whole repertoire of sounds as they flew on their way.

Ross experimented with the Canon on the tripod as the sun set, getting some interesting 'ghost' shots with faster or slower shutter speeds.

Wednesday 13th February 2008: Bush camp between Ndjole and Lope, Gabon

GPS Info: N00° 06' 56.1" E11° 19' 59.2"

Miles Today: 277 Total Miles: 13 773

It was quite misty when we woke up. We got on the road fairly early to try and make the most of the cooler morning temperatures, and cover as much ground as we could on our way to Franceville. We stopped in at Lope National Park, where we had stayed a few days earlier, hoping to see Gilles, but we thought he may have already left for Quebec via France. Cedrik the Spiderman was still staying there, with some of his washing hanging up on the line, but was out in the field researching his beloved tarantulas.

We drove on following the huge, fast flowing Ogooue River and then crossed over other unknown big rivers a few times too, as we criss-crossed through the beautiful green jungle. We drove for hours on the wide, well-graded logging roads, without many logging trucks today, passing a fancy, elaborate grave stone on the side of the road for a man who died during the construction of one of the stretches of road. As we approached Lastoursville, we came across a tar road again, but this was very brief, becoming dirt once again just after the town. We headed on down to Moanda where we got lost in a few one-way streets and ended up heading towards the Congo border at Mbinda, but luckily after not too far we realised our mistake and found the correct road to Franceville.

Arriving in Franceville just after sunset, we could see a very dark, black cloud hanging over the city as a storm was imminent. The city of Franceville surrounds a high hill, which makes the temperatures cooler. We headed to a hotel suggested by Nic and Robin, hoping to camp for free in the carpark, as they had done. Unfortunately the manager refused to let us camp unless we paid CFA5 000 for parking, and this was without a loo, shower or water! We could have ablutions if we paid for a room, which was much more. Obviously this was not going to happen so we drove off in search of Hotel Masuku, another place mentioned by Border Crossings, a couple whose GPS waypoints we had been given. Conveniently this was located on the top of the hill as you approach the city on the main road. We parked and enquired with the French owner who was more than happy to let us camp in a flattened, grassy lawned area next to the restaurant. He gave us a room key to have free use of a loo and shower. He was so kind and helpful, and said we could make use of the pool too. It was late and we were tired so had a quick dinner and fell asleep, enjoying the slightly lower temperature, due to the higher altitude.

Thursday 14th February 2008: Hotel Masuku, Franceville, Gabon

GPS Info: S01° 37' 56.6" E13° 35' 08.3"

Miles Today: 160 Total Miles: 13 933

Happy Valentine's Day!!! As a Valentine's treat we had breakfast at the restaurant, for only CFA2 000 each, including a nice coffee, for Ross. We had such a lovely lady serving us who made us feel so special, even though we were only having a small breakfast. We packed up afterwards and said good-bye. We would definitely recommend camping at Hotel Masuku, especially as the route via Franceville will probably be the only way for overlanders to come in the future, getting around Cabinda, and avoiding the dangerous rebel road between Pointe Noir and Brazzaville. If only the Angolan visa wasn't such a mission.

We tried to go to CIRMF to see the gorillas we had been recommended to see, by a minister at the Beattitude Mission in Libreville. We managed to get in the main gate, but got no further as it's generally not open to the public. They are a medical research centre, but we can only assume they test on monkeys, as they were very cagey and wanted us out. One of the management told us on the phone at the main gate, "This is not a zoo!". Someone tried to see if we could be allowed into the Primate Centre only, but this was refused too.

After many hours on not such great broken, bumpy roads we arrived at Bongoville. This is where the president is from, so the road entering it, going through it and a few metres exiting it are all smooth good tar, thereafter they disintegrate again. The president renamed this town after himself, can you believe that. We drove through vast, rolling, open grasslands for as far as we could see, reminding us more of the Serengeti or the top of a grassy plateau than this area in Gabon.

We crossed an amazing river with totally clear, beautifully clean water. From the bridge it was as if you were looking through a piece of glass. You could clearly see the fish swimming in the river below, with the long green reeds swaying along the banks and in the currents of the riverbed.

We drove past Lekoni Custom's/Douanne just before 6pm, but it was all closed and abandoned, meaning we would need to drive back here tomorrow to get the carnet stamped.

It was getting dark as we approached Lekoni itself, and we asked many people for directions to Lekoni Canyon, getting conflicting directions and some rather strange looks. We tried to pick our way to Martin and Debbie's waypoint, but there seemed to be no road, other than the new big Chinese tar road heading to the border, with deep dangerous gutters on each side. Eventually, we met someone who gave us very good, accurate directions telling us to drive back on the Chinese road for 5km and then to turn off on the sand track to the right and follow it until we come to the canyon. It is not signposted and is easy to miss. It was very sandy and very dark as we drove up and down steep grassy hills until we eventually popped out at an open area, which we assumed was the canyon viewpoint, about 200m from where Martin and Debbie's waypoint was. It was very dark and had a strong human smell, which made both of us feel very uncertain. The ground was wet from the rain, but it was hot and humid, and there were a lot of mozzies We got out the torches and scanned down into the canyon, but it was too dark so we would have to wait until the morning to see it. We settled into an uneasy nights sleep.

Friday 15th February 2008: Bush camp over-looking the Lekoni Canyon, Lekoni, Gabon

GPS Info: S01° 38' 31.5" E14° 17' 22.9"

Miles Today: 142 Total Miles: 14 075

Ross woke up really early, and was glad it was light at last so he could now see what was around us. There was no one around but us, and a huge canyon reflecting shades of pink, red and orange depending on how the sunlight caught it. It was weird to see it here and so deep with no evidence of water for miles. We didn't know how it was formed, but thought maybe by soil and wind erosion which has left uneven vertical stacks sticking up, all of similar heights. We had breakfast and then realised the tiny black biting insects were back so we jumped into Duzi2 and headed off back along the sandy, hilly track to join the Chinese road towards the Congo border. Surprising some of the road workers, we trundled out of the bush.

We had to drive back through Lekoni and the Immigrations stop to the Customs Office we had tried last night. The man was there and it was open. He happily stamped our carnet, so we returned to the Immigrations stop to stamp our passports before heading back out on the new road to the Congo border. A few kilometres on from where we had taken the track to Lekoni Canyon, with frantic hand signals from the road workers, we realised we needed to turn off this lovely new tar road and head down to a tiny border/immigration post (Akou), as the road quickly ran out a few metres on. We were met by a very cheerful policeman who waved us out of Gabon, and pointed us in the direction of a soft, thick sandy track leading into the grass, 'That's the road to Congo,' he said. No more tar, just sand...